PCBs done quick.

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Published 2015-08-05
**warning this video is not a complete guide and for demonstration only**

There's been a lot of hubbub on the internet about making PCBs using these new PCB printers. They sound all cool. They're only thousands of dollars, they take less than an hour, have okay precision and seem to produce tolerably durable boards.

WHY?

Making PCBs isn't rocket science. People've been doing it for decades at home. Heck, my first PCBs were made using some mid-90's radioshack kit.

In fact, they can be made cheaper, more durably, and faster using traditional methods!

Materials:
(1) FR4 (or CEM) 0.060 1 Oz Copper Single Sided boards, available from ebay.
(2) DuPont Riston. Available from tech-place or ebay.
(3) UV Mercury Vapor Light, usually used in terrariums.
(4) ~42% Ferric Chloride, available from ebay and other shops.

All Comments (21)
  • @liusamper5912
    It's amazing, I have worked in PCB production and sales for many years, I never imagined to be able to make at home。
  • @gordonyoud5975
    I'm glad you turned the water off, I was getting seasick, :-)
  • @hudsonriverlee
    Quite an interesting process. I am not at this stage yet however it will be soon. Nicely lit video and very informative.... helps prevents accidents when you see the actual process in motion.
  • @quailquillz
    Cool. Thanks for the tips. I'm going to try one of those laminators next time.
  • @sethdrake2231
    Helpful and informative, thank you. In the future, you could use an awl to punch up (up, as to keep the bottom side from lying flat as well, only one correct side down) through the two transparency layers in two opposite corners to keep them aligned with each other.
  • When I used to make PCB photo negatives like this I would make one of the images flipped, so when I sanwhiched them together, with stickey tape arround the edges, I would have double the black print sanwhiched in the centre of the plastic film, which prevents the print from being scratched during use. Still have them today, 30 years later in perfect condition !
  • @taitano12
    "They're... 20 years too late." HAAAHAHAHA!!!. Love it. Comedy gold for a nerd like me. I was 9 when I made my first PCB in the mid 80's. I look at all these modern DIY PCB etching and prototyping things involving 3D printers, CNC, lasers, etc and laugh. By the time they get their machine set up and calibrated, my board's done. Print, iron, etch and rinse. Done! The method I usually used was not as accurate as the Riston method you're using though. But the Riston step adds on, what, a minute? I remember using a pen with etch resistant ink to hand draw some of the simpler projects involving 555's and 556's by hand. I remember playing with the settings on the iron to see which ones transferred the toner best without spread. Then, there were the ink-jet and transfer paper experiments. Those were hit or miss as the FeCl would seep through the ink, or eat it right off, if you didn't do things juuuuust right, and hold your tongue at the perfect angle. And the whole thing can get even faster if you have a t-shirt silk-screen press. But it's only faster if you have a ton of identical PCBs to make, as the set up time - and process for that matter - takes about twice as long. Yeah. I love keeping up with the latest stuff, but there's no flippin way I'm laying down $5,000 to $10,000 for one of those things.
  • @007gurkan
    i use a local digital printing shop, which has machine for printing on plastics, very good resolution on copper, super cheap too. like 1$ per 10x10cm copper plate.
  • @sepphofer1122
    I'm really loving your "washing equipment". Brrrrhahahaaa, thumb up for the art of presentation.
  • @CXensation
    That'll teach you using a proper workbench :-) Thanks for the video. Contains a couple of aspects to the art of producing homemade PCB's.
  • @keninorlando9
    Laundry in the machine.... love it... looks like my garage...
  • @Digole
    I ever used the dry film before, but now I usually print the circuit on the HP premium presentation paper, then do toner transfer to PCB, much faster and easier than the way of dry film.
  • I was doing this as far as 1998 using overhead transparency film intended for overhead projectors. I'd copy the image from a magazine onto standard paper and touch it up where needed from the photocopier. I'd then use the same photocopier to transfer that image onto the transparency film. The copiers used 'laser' ink toner which are mixtures of iron and a plastic that could be manipulated on the page while it was hot. Once on the clear transparency sheet the toner could again be transferred onto a clean sheet of copper by simply and directly ironing the transparency sheet (covered by a sheet of paper to stop sticking) onto the copper blank. Just get the up/down side of the sheet correct -lol. I used a large plastic dish myself with a reclosable airtight lid. just drop the blank into the solution and come back about every 2 hours to check on it and to move it about. The Ferric Chloride solution can etch many boards. It just gets slower each time before it finally needs to be regenerated or disposed of as heavy metal waste. Of course the metal can be recovered but that's another story.
  • @PeterWorkman
    Your use and advocacy of gloves and goggles has assuaged my tender sensibilities.
  • @daveoatway6126
    I made PCBs with ferric chloride 40 years age but had to make photo negatives from art work. The software and printer are a real enhancement. Nice video.