Can a Thermal Camera find bad TV parts 🤔

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“This desoldering tool is the best tool ever!” Transistor doesn’t come out😂

Should have show the board with the thermal camera after as well. Also set up the thermal camera at the start while everything is cool. Maybe you can see one component heating up faster than others

(sorry for my poor english) hello i want to help you out with your desoldering station... here is the right procedure as Pace, Jbc, Hakko, Weller and Jbc recommend: 1: look at the pads... does it have a big ground plane? is it double sided or/and multilayers? does it have an eyelet? etc... depending on what there is, adjust the temperature to have a quick melt... (my recommandation: if its rohs (lead free) solder, add lead solder... ) 2: heat the pad while wiggling for about 2 sec. 3: while continuing wiggling, press the pump for 3 sec... it will cold down the pad and pin and this will prevent bridge solder.... 4: release the button and youre done! this is important to do theses steps... you can see in action on youtube PaceWorldWide videos... if you maintain well your soldering station and do theses step you will always have good results 😉

Nice to see a realistic repair where you have to dig around to find the issue.

Camera was worth it. 300 degrees is burn and blister time. Good job. Thanks TT.

Thanks! it's always a tough call to keep 10+ year old TV's alive, I always try as long as the LCD screen is good and they are LED back lights and not fluorescent. Thanks for the tool links also.

Nice job buddy as said glad to see the fixing videos coming back 👍😀👌

Great video. 👍 I love the digital micro camera. Going to look it up.

Great info and review as always.👍

Seems like the work of a capacitor with low EPR (Equivalent Parallel Resistance), when they begin to leak DC the usual side effect is over biasing a transistor! This particular phenomenon can't be found with an ESR meter, the only way is to pull out the capacitors and test them out of circuit with an LCR Bridge Meter which will give you all the details like, ESR, EPR (aka drain or DC leakage), capacity, quality and phase angle... There's a really great video on such a device which I ended up getting after watching it on eBay for years, I would have got it sooner but held off because it looked like it was complicated to use but after watching a video on how it works, I got it ASAP and I have never looked back! If you are interested, I can link the video below, the device cost me $95Au and should be cheaper for you and your US dollar! The device in the video is the older version which is still available and almost identical to the new version which I got, the only difference between the two capacitor is that the new version went with smd components, internal USB C rechargeable lithium battery, smaller size and blue backlighting instead of green... They both have every single bit of information needed on the one screen all at the same time! I can't recommend it enough! There's plenty LCR Bridge Meters out there but they will cost more! They don't show everything on the same screen which you have to scroll through to see all the details and either write down the details or try and remember them because you really need to look at everything at once! Your in circuit ESR tester is great for a quick scan across the capps but it's totally blind to the other failure modes of capacitors, that's why you most likely have transistors that are burning up! Transistors like Vacuum tubes will last a very long time, it's usually something else that will cause them to fail. As you saw for yourself, the transistors that we hot actually were good! You have leaky capacitors, another way to check is to look at their capacity! Low capacity equals high ESR, a good capacitor should be just below what it's rated for, if the capacity has gone up! It's leaking DC and because of the leak, it takes longer to measure giving the impression that it larger than what it really is, there's no such thing as an overachieving capacitor! The EPR failure mode is the one that catches everyone out! It's the one that destroys everything else in it's path... So if you are interested, ask me for the link and I will post it below, after watching this video you will know that you have to have one! Thanks for this great video, I really wanted to see the temperature drop on that hot transistor, it would be great to see it sorted...

Really great idea! Like the tune while the hour passed also. I had an older big Samsung TV given few years back, the standby caps were swollen so got them replaced with decent caps and it's been brilliant since. Those bad samwha caps were a big problem back then as you probably know. Really appreciate your video 🙂

Nice one using thermal camera to troubleshoot electronics! Well done!

I guess if it can detect people who are sick, it can also detect bad parts.

Awesome stuff , thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. 👍

Thanks for taking the time to do this video.

Great video Paul 👍👍👍👍

I like the information presented on the video. Since the temperature is still high after replacing the parts, would it be best to replace the power supply? Would like to have the latest for the TV if it is still working. Just curios. Thanks for all what you do helping/showing people how to fix their TV.

Great video! Did you ever check temps after you replaced those parts in the video? That was a cliffhanger!

Nice Video Bro. Yeah those Fets normally run really hot on PS bd. Pushing like 200Vdc to drive that Xformer. Finally got me a Flir too like u said, just arrived a few days ago, havent got a chance to use it yet though, lol. Keep'um comin!