Big Wall Anchor Tricks That Can Save You Hours

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Published 2022-11-02
Big Wall #9 of 14 - www.bigwalls.com/
Anchors can be the leak in your time boat. You can lose so much time if you don't have anchor skills dialed. If you can't build the anchor quickly, if heavy stuff smashes down what you want to unclip later, if the bag is on the left and you have to haul towards the right, or are just completely unorganized. You can shave your aid leads down to a quick half hour a pitch but lose it all at a 2 hour anchor cluster... OR you can take a casual hour to lead something but make up for that by doing your anchor, hauling and change over in 10 minutes.

This specific chapter is at www.hownot2.com/post/bigwalls...

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Intro
02:33 2 bolt anchors by Jeremiah
07:34 2 bolt anchors by Ryan
14:14 3 bolt anchor by Jeremiah
18:12 3 bolt anchors by Ryan
23:01Trad anchor by Ryan
26:04 Trad anchor by Jeremiah
32:45 Staying organ

All Comments (21)
  • This channel is so ridiculous. The amount of knowledge I've gained from it is seriously awesome. Respect as always guys.
  • @newsx8277
    on the three point anchor by jeremiah, the center biner isn’t actually getting pulled two directions, the cordelette is. if you had 2 separate loops of sling or cordelette going different directions through that carabiner then yes, you’d have 3-axis loading. but here since the knot is the only thing getting pulled two directions, you’re loading the center carabiner only one way, so yeah, totally safe
  • @dl6225
    KISS, You certainly don't need locking biners on every bolt. Makes sense when you are using one as a 'poor mans' rigging plate as you say but not necessary on every bolt....
  • @goingupcountry5670
    Do you have an adhd and gifted diagnosis?The depth, the self awareness, the trauma, anger, crazy but not crazy thought processing, the passion and talent, the way your mind intertwines links, externalising your internal dialogue of your several voices without it being Dissociative Identity Disorder, just the layers upon layers upon layers, the spiritual awareness, I can't even truly explain but I'm pretty sure you and Ren are the only people I've seen who have been able to accurately provide a visual and audio representation of what also goes on inside my head. You are pure genius and don't get enough recognition for that. Thankyou for sharing your brain and music with the world.
  • CLOVE HITCHES FOR THE MASTER POINTS!!! and all anchor points!!!
  • @adamkelly6264
    I've always wanted to like the quad anchor, but find once you've jugged on it (or worse, fallen and rescued off it) the knots are too much of a pain to remove. I think the arguments about extension if one side blows are academic since that just never happens if you build your anchor properly, but I tend to favour the BFK type set up just for ease of getting everything packed up ready to use again. I guess if you're going to dedicate a couple of slings as quad anchors permanently and not use them for anything else then that would work pretty well.
  • @charlstice
    Thanks for all the content, especially the Bolting Bible.
  • Teaching with CMC we always taught 3 point anchors two down and one up. If the leader falls the pull on the belayer is UP.
  • @prusikknot
    I don't know if you're planning to attend this year's ITRS in Albuquerque or not, (we were supposed to talk about it some time back and never connected) but I hope to see you there this weekend! Keep doing what you do! Cheers!
  • @erikosuch4353
    Thank u, u saving us so much money which we can invest in our trips and adventures! Love from Slovakia!!!❤
  • Awesome thank you guys for making these vids. Feeding my stoke to big wall! But why use the daisy when climbing up to the haul bag - you’re tightening the grigri anyway. Why not just weight it on top and do your thing in the bag, then lower down. Worried the grigri might push against something and disengage the cam? Thanks again 🙏🏻