Their 235 Chevy BROKE DOWN 10 Miles After The LAST Shop's Rebuild...

Thank you to Keeps for sponsoring this video! Head to keeps.com/jimsauto to get a special offer.

As a certified mechanic of ten years I appreciate you guys not rushing to throw the previous shop under the bus. You guys are a class act!

Man, watching this makes me think a lot about my old man. We grew up on a farm and he taught me everything I know from fixing dirt bikes to farm tractors. Unfortunately I lost him to a heart attack about a decade ago when I was just 17. Cherish your relationship and don’t let the little arguments go to heart, make amends on the spot so you don’t live the rest of your life regretting your mistakes. Thanks for posting these videos!

What a nightmare project to deal with. I'm glad you guys are doing this one. Thanks for sharing this with us

Good to listen to a master craftsman , it is a rare thing . Thank you.

I do appreciate the way he does not bash on the prior rebuilders.

"I just have to deal with you." Lovingly father/son bantering, I love it. I think mispackaging is a great answer to the problem.

I love dad and son working together, generational businesses are the best, as they have their name on the line every day.

Best video ever! Back in 1998 my 1985 Blazer motor broke the crankshaft. The repair guys said they could put in a used engine for $350 plus labor. I did not have that much money, so I decided to fix my engine at home. It took me 4 months and I was successful. The only thing I had was a book to explain to me what to do. There was no instant videos, no way to ask questions, nothing: you were on your own and I was pretty good at thinking about stuff. I bought an engine lift crane, engine mounting holder and every tool that I needed. Since I had the engine open, I decided to change the 6 cylinder cam shaft to a racing cam for $225 and added roller valve rocker arms. The biggest issue I had was the cylinders were all cut to 0.30" and not factory, but this was a factory motor. The bearings misalignment is what cause the failure and I needed to get a used engine block for $250. That is why my original pistols would not fit my new block! Back to the machinists to rebore to 0.30. That was only $150 for that. As I said: "I did not have $350 plus labor for a used engine" - I ended up spending $1100 total and I got a ton of tools and engineering smarts from doing it myself. The Blazer ran like a V8 after that! Was like a scalded dog after that. Fast and smooth. These days I can just look up YouTube and learn a fix for lots of things.

Yes getting old sucks but it's way better than not getting old!

Having worked in a Chevrolet parts department in 1965 and '66, the 235 did not come with a drilled headbolt. When a customers car came in with the top end clacking, from lack of oil in the rocker shaft, the mechanic would come to the parts department and get a drilled headbolt and put it in the engine in the correct place and return oiling to the rocker shaft.

Everyone always enjoys a good post mortem. Inside every good mechanic is a detective.

I was in high school in 1970 and had a 54 Chevy, which was a 230ci. It was wore out enough that when I'd pull in to a gas station, which was full serve back then, I'd tell him to fill the oil and check the gas. They had bulk oil, 1 quart bottles, with a funnel screwed on and set up in a stand. I was trying to remember what all I did to it during my overhaul, but couldn't remember. Then when you pulled those "nippled" bearings off, I had a flashback. Ran great when I put it back together, and eventually added and Offenhauser intake for 2 one barrels, and a homemade split exhaust that was a butcher job, but it still worked. We beat that car so hard at the time. Broke the main shaft to the tranny about 5 times, replaced I don't know how many rear wheel studs, and to this day I can still see in my head how to take the rear end apart to pull the axles out. I could probably do it with my eyes closed. Broke the drive shaft once too, and since it was a torque tube, we had to replace the entire assembly. Ah....fond memories. LOL

I'm currently reschooling to become a mechanic, not engines spefically (Trucks, not pickups but trailertractor kind) and I've fallen in love with your channel. The way you work, speak and your knowledge is soothing and relaxing as heck!

You both are greatly blessed and it's so cool to see father and son working together... A lost art

I am 71 and there was something very soothing and nostalgic about watching this and seeing Jim referring to paper manuals for data instead of looking it up on line.. Also his care in checking the serial numbers to acquaint himself with what he was actually working on reminded me of workmanship that seems to be getting harder to find... the deliberate and steady pace of work and assessment were reassuring and seemed much more satisfying than the throw away culture we have currently... thanks for doing these videos.. I have subscribed...

I was a mechanic for 50 years before I slid the toolbox into my own shop and worked on my own stuff. I'm still fascinated with watching other mechanics and hearing their commentary. I especially like it when the previous shop wasn't bashed. Mistakes happen and God only knows how many I've made. And how many stupid things I've done recently. Good show!

I specialize in rebuilding these old stovebolt engines,it’s cool to see you guys finally working on one for the channel! That valve definitely seized up from those umbrella seals. In my years of experience with these the o ring seals are plenty and going with the factory valve guide clearance is best. My theory is because the oil breather is down low on the block unlike most modern engines where the breather is on the valve cover, a lot of the oil mist is going out the bottom of the road draft. Since the 235 suffers from poor oiling you only have the splash from the rockers to get to the guides which is limited. When it comes to shimming the crank I never use them. I’m sure you guys know but that’s from the old days of having your car fixed at the gas station and removing shims on a worn engine to tighten up the clearance on the crank. The oil filters were only a bypass setup and oil sludge was a problem back then so excessive wear plagued these engines. In my opinion if your crank needs shims removed as the engine gets older it’s wore out at that point and needs a rebuild anyways lol. I put the bearings in the mains without the shims and take my measurements and grind the crank accordingly. The book specs will throw you off since 57 and earlier have the shims factored in.

I saw many a valve job done on 235 & 261engines in the 60s before unleaded gas and 200+ degree thermostats. The valves and the top of the pistons had so much built up carbon it took a while just to clean them before reassembly. If I remember correctly a valve job had to be done every 25,000 miles and rings and inserts minor overhaul at about 50,000. Plugs and points had to be replaced every 6000 to 10,000 miles depending on driving habits. My dad worked at a small town Chevy dealership from 45-69 and I from 67-69. I am happy to see this engine and truck kept as original as possible. By the way, this father and son team get along a lot better than me and mine did. lol

I have been a mechanic for 15 years and I would LOVE to go back to my apprentice days and apprentice under this guy.