Easy DIY Solar Panel Roof Installation

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I'd be pretty leery of all those penetrations and relying on the sealant. I'd also question the strength being only tied into the sheathing (and most people won't even know how well that's nailed down either!) I also don't like all the snow loads aren't placed on the rafters, just the sheathing. I like the front trim panels as it looks cleaner, but it also lowers the efficiency of the panels too since it will restrict some under panel cooling. But again, in your case you're aware of all of this and you're fine with it. Speaking of rafters, I noticed a lot of flex as you're walking around in the video. With the extra weight of the panels, you might want to consider sistering those rafters.

I appreciate your work. I am an architect. When I got started with solar, I looked long and hard to find a roof mount that provides a built-in boot so the fastener penetrating the weather barrier, the shingle in this case, would have a solid flashing that covers the penetrant. Long term I would not want a joint that offers only sealant. I don't care what type of sealant. I would REALLY not want a design that increased the number of fasteners and more holes like this. A solid flashing, a hood, a boot, that drains with the roof slope and can resist wind-blown rain is best. There are several designs that do this pretty well. Applying sealant to the penetrations UNDER the hood is just fine. Belt and suspenders. This is your ROOF. Water penetration is a great risk to buildings. 16 potential leak points per panel. Rails are more expensive. This connecter is fast for DIY. OK. you did a good job telling about it and you want comments on the controversial part. You are a youtuber. Your numbers go up, and I am not a grouchy old guy with nothing better to do. Great. You may already have videos that cover these other type of boots. One day the building gets reshingled and all this stuff will come off. It would be great to have a system that you could match up the same locations, shingle around your boots, and put it all back on again. Or maybe that is when you upgrade to a standing seam metal roof and do S5 clips.

Great setup. My thought on clamp layout would be to use one clamp on the end and then a clamp in between the next panel so its less clamps used. The clamp appears wide enough to bridge and clamp to two panels at once.

Something to do before you do you own DIY solar panels on your roof. First check with your insurance company, have an insurance adjuster come out. He/she will be able to tell you if a DIY solar project will be covered on your insurance coverage. This is very important as your insurance company can and will say your solar panels are not covered on your insurance coverage.

Hardware mounting points for panels I thought rule of thirds come into play. That way the panels are evenly supported and can withstand forces like wind, deep snow or ice better. Also the panels can handle strong horizontal winds without being stressed as much. In our area, the sheer strength of the shorter lag bolts would come into play vs mounting into roof supports. Like to concept, but would need solid engineering analysis to see if they would work.

So, does this only bite into the plywood rather than any framing? I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable with that, especially in a windy area.

Beside the regulation that you mentioned, I think that there are also regulation for leaving a walking path, like 3 feet wide, especially close to roof edges.

My solar installer just installed a new system using new mounting from Ironridge called HALO, it uses 6 lag screws if misses the trusts. It has adhesive pad on the bottom of this mount where the screws penetrate to shingles. This save half of the time for the installer to lay down the mount without finding the trusts. So far so good no leaking but is seem to be too many screws 3 inches penetrate the roof boards. My installers just put 6 screws on all of them even it they hit or miss the trusts. Worse is when you have to remove this racking for new shingles, you probably need new roof board also. But they still use the rails across the mounts. 4 mount/rack for each solar panel and I have 47 of them, that's 282 lag bolts holes.. Time will tell.

When leaves and pine needles fall on your roof, is that skirt going to cause them to stack up? Rodent habitat.

I would be very worried about leaks, even with tar or silicone.

Aluminum solar rails are SUPER cheap and easy to work with, I'll stick with them, and simple L-feet with rubber micro-flashing in rafters. I installed my own 5kW PV system this way, several years ago, and it's worked perfect, ever since.

That's great hardware..I prefer ground mount systems myself..I would caulk those brackets, around the heads of the lag bolts, and on the inside where they come through the rough..My ground mount is built from 2x4's, I built 2 carts on big wheels, each hold four 400 watt panels, so I can change the angle of the panels and move them to follow the sun, because I live in a valley in the Adirondack forest, so being able to change angles and move the panels is essential..And I have 4 stationary 400 watt panels..I traded in my old inverter in and got the new EG4 Luxpower 6000 XP and it runs my whole house easily, including my well pump, welder, Minisplit, microwave, induction cooktop, etc..Well the minisplit runs from it's own panels, during the day, anyhow..Of course I don't run more than 2 or 3 high draw items at a time, but haven't had any problems..I might add a 2nd 6000 XP, just to have an xtra in case one goes down, and to lesson the demand on the other..

That's 16 roof penetrations per panel. We don't get snow loads here in the Arizona desert, but the sun dries out sealant super quick. I think they would have to be resealed every year or two because you're relying on that sealant.

arning: Replace your shingle roof before you install solar panels, neighbors had solar panels installed two years ago, shingle roof had to be replaced this year, it cost them $11,500.00 to have the solar panels removed and installed again....

I have 2 grid tie 550 watt panels which I put into my panel in the lower right double 20 amp breaker spot direct. Having trouble monitoring if it’s working correct. Any advice?

I could hit a number of things, but one issue I have is the skirt, that will be a leaf litter trap, and can be so bad as to be a fire hazard (in a wind blown fire situation)

Hey Scott--I am LOVING that you have a side channel for solar. I desperately want to have a solar set up but it's just so cost prohibitive. Would love to do a DIY set up, but I have a newer modern home and have a flat roof. Any insights for DIY on a flat roof? Maybe a next video ;)

Hey Scott, I am looking for a controller that will take in voltage different sources. I would like to build my system to take in solar as the primary and wind as a back up so one charge controller will take care of both inputs. Have you done a video on this, or do you have a suggestion?

Per NEC, if the solar panels are mounted to a building, Rapid Shutdown is required. It isn't waived depending on what you connect them to. The inverter may be portable, but you've made the panels fixed to the building, so it must meet NEC in most jurisdictions. There are some exceptions.