Swapping a Ford Explorer 8.8 Rear End into my 1968 Mustang
16,029
Published 2023-12-23
00:00 - Intro
00:55 - Ford Explorer 8.8 Identification
03:14 - Ford 8.8 Reat Diff Cover Removal
04:41 - Ford 8.8 Disc Caliper Removal
05:24 - Ford 8.8 Limited Slip Posi Test
06:34 - Ford 8.8 Spring Perch Measurement
06:59 - 1968 Mustang Leaf Spring Perch Measurement
08:39 - Ford Explorer 8.8 Disc Rotor Removal
09:35 - Ford 8.8 Bracket Cutting and Shaving
13:06 - 1968 Mustang Rear End Removal
14:58 - Mustang 7.25 vs Ford 8.8 Rear End
17:41 - Ford 8.8 Rear End Test Fit in Mustang
22:10 - 1968 Mustang Ford 8.8 Rear End Angle Adjustment
23:33 - How to Set the Pinion Angle in a Leaf Spring Car
25:03 - What Axle Wrap and Wheel Hop Looks Like
25:21 - How to Set Pinion Angle For Axle Deflection
26:09 - Ford 8.8 Rear End Offset Differential Explained
27:47 - Checking Your Engine and Transmission Angle
29:05 - How To Adjust Your Pinion Angle
30:15 - Welding Custom Axle Perches
33:10 - Ford 8.8 Custom Axle Perch Welding
34:24 - Final Installation of the Ford 8.8 in my '68 Mustang
All Comments (21)
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Excellent upgrade. When you have the back cover off, it's really easy to replace the clutch and steel plates in the limited slip differential. It's a good thing to do on a vehicle with 160k miles.
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Love the job you did on spring perch, very nice work
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I did the same thing but I cut the driver axle tube 3 inches to center it up like the original and used a passenger axle
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Great vid! Enjoyed the watch. One note, axel center sections are deliberately offset to keep the universal joints from always running in the same spot. The offset helps distribute the wear. It also cuts down on cyclic driveline vibration.
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Better watch out Tesla might steal that drawing for the next cybertruck
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Those Magnums fit perfect.
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It's called traction -lock in ford speak . you also have 31 spline axles whereas the sn95 Mustang Gt's are 29 spline .
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Top notch content, I'm doing a very similar swap with the drivetrain out of a 98 Explorer into a 67 Mustang. If anything, I'd say the pinion angle would be most important at cruising but that's cause I really hate vibration when driving.
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Wow, this was a really informative one. Never would have guessed you want those lines to be parallel, and the crazy amount of flex under power.
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Awesome video brother! keep it up. I like how honest and true you are in the videos, keep it going
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I continue to be impressed with your build, nothing fancy but PROVEN mods that work and work well. I also got the same rear end for my car but I did shorten one side to even it up. I still have to set my pinion angle and seeing you do yours has answered a few lingering questions I had. I am taking a break to enjoy Christmas but right after, I will be working on my first video about my 67 fastback. Congrats friend, I look forward to your shake down drives on your car.
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Cutting torches are a great investment.
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Now...are we going to turbo this engine sir? A 76mm will bring this 5.0 to life. We are not above begging lol
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Plymouth is sure grip.
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Looks good. On leaf spring cars the front mounting points of the leaf springs are narrower than the rear to keep the axle centered in the car, think of it like a triangulated four link rear suspension. You might want to consider cal trac bars to keep the leaf springs from wrapping up, it was real bad on my buddies 68 mustang before installing cal tracs
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Great work dude! Saw ya on Reddit, love finding creators like you, looking forward to all your new (and need to watch prior) content!
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Explorer drivetrain stuff is great.
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Great videos, I put the same axel cut down in my 1963 Valiant
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Great video. Thumbs up
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Awesome video! Quick question: when putting on the leaf spring perches, which hole did you align with the leaf spring nipple and did it lay flat with the leaf spring? Thanks!
