Easiest Grid-Tied Solar On The Market! Plug-N-Play

Note: 110V, 115V, 120V... all the same thing. 220V, 230V, 240V... also the same thing. Just depends on your local utility distribution. In the U.S., voltages have trended upward over the decades because the higher voltages allow considerably more power to be transmitted on the same distribution lines. Basically these 120VAC (roughly) micro-inverters work just like normal 240VAC in that they synchronize to the line waveform that they see on the circuit. But there are a number of issues that people need to keep in mind: (1) 120VAC micro-inverters are generally NOT very efficient. 85%-90% is typical. 240VAC micro-inverters tend to run 95-98% efficient. This also means that 120VAC micro-inverters run a lot hotter than a typical 240VAC Enphase micro-inverter would. (2) You are back-feeding into just one side of the 240VAC split-phase going into your home, so the loading on the utility transformer is not symmetrical. This is typically not an issue as long as you are not back-feeding too much power since of course most normal house loads are unbalanced as well. (3) You are back-feeding into the middle or the end of a branch circuit. This is actually illegal. No, you won't get thrown into jail, but you might end up with a fine if you advertise what you are doing. It is only legal to back-feed into a dedicated breaker, with nothing else on that circuit. In addition the home must be on a solar tariff / backfeeding must be allowed by the utility. (4) Back-feeding into the middle or the end of a branch circuit BYPASSES YOUR BREAKER. This can be dangerous because depending on the topology this allows devices on your branch circuit to pull more amps than the house wiring might be able to support. This is an issue if you are plugged the back-feed into the middle of the branch-circuit. Devices sitting at the end of the branch-circuit can now consume the entire line breaker's amperage PLUS the backfed amperage without tripping the breaker. The result is that the house's in-wall wiring can catch fire. (5) There is the possibility that the micro-inverter will continue feeding devices on the branch circuit even if the breaker trips. This is obviously dangerous. -- So, that's the skinny on these 120VAC micro-inverters and why the only ones you see are junk brands. They aren't really meant for U.S. consumers. They are mostly sold to Chinese, Indian, and consumers of other countries with less robust or more expensive grids. Now if you STILL want to do this, I have some suggestions: * Never run any high-power devices on the circuit you are back-feeding into. * Dedicate the entire circuit to the back-feed.... but if you can't, then: * Back-feed into the END of the branch circuit... the last outlet in the chain, to minimize the chance of an in-wall home-wiring fire. * Note that you are still bypassing your breaker. * Do not back-feed more than roughly 500W (4A) on a 15A circuit. * Maybe consider not doing this at all. -- Typical questions: * Will the utility meter deal with one leg back-feeding and the other leg forward-feeding ? Answer: Smart meters typically handle this correctly if they are already solar-enabled (i.e. you already have home solar and a contract with the utility and the utility expects you to backfeed). Dumb meters typically won't handle this correctly. But you might want to test it because if it doesn't handle it correctly the energy can wind up being billed to you as consumption. * Will the utility company find out? Answer1: If you actually manage to back-feed power all the way to the grid, and you are not already on a solar tariff, and you have a smart-meter, the utility will know immediately and might get unhappy with you. Maybe consider ensuring that the home eats more power on that leg then you are back-feeding so you don't actually back-feed the utility. Answer2: If you are on a solar grid-tie tariff and not a solar + battery tariff, and you back-feed after sundown, the utility will figure it out and might get angry with you. * Just how dangerous is this really? Answer: It's all on you bro! I aint gonna say its safe, but I will say if you do it keep the wattages fairly low. * How many people in the U.S. use these sorts of plug-in micro-inverters ? Answer: Too many. * Are these 120VAC micro-inverters UL compliant. Answer: No. None of them are. Even if they say they are, they aren't. None of them follow the timing rules, none of them have insulation testing, none of them detect out-spec grid conditions. Most of them WILL disconnect if the grid goes down but not always... if your loads match the output they might not disconnect because most of these micro-inverters just use voltage sensing... if they are able to push the waveform too high they know they aren't connected to the grid and will stop. -Matt

Great video, i just rewatched your previous video with the amazon set up, and this popped up. I think I'll look into this new version. Keep up the good content.

Have been an admirer of your videos for a long time because you make a rock (me) get it. I had to say it, this time you lost me when you said I did not need to connect this and that. I am visual learner and would have learned from actually you doing the plug and play without all the ofter stuff. Eventually I will get it seeing your video a few hundred times. Keep up the great work.

Nice! Was hoping for a follow-up to your previous setup

good info.

Scott, can you make a video about a completely off-grid DIY solar setup that is using an Ecoflow Delta 2 Max to power a mini split? Have a detached shed project in mind that doesn't currently have power, but I'd like to convert it to a WFH office. Edit: Got the inspiration from your recent shed project. Would like to do similar, except expand upon that with more panels and the Delta 2 Max (with extra battery, which I already have).

Can you plug straight to the grid no other equipment needed?

How well would a system like this work with an automatic transfer switch and how could I step it up to 24 volts?

Fun video. Thanks for making it. I've got a couple used 300W panels sitting in my shop and was looking for something like this. My difficulty is my power rate is only about 8 cents per kWh, so the ROI on this is just too far out to make back the cost of the inverter. Would have been fun to play with, but not something I have to have. Thanks again for showing off this inverter.

I'm new to solar and a little intimidated. Could I use these grid tied plug in micro inverter to feed power to my house from batteries with a timer to only feed during peak charge times? And then use a battery charger on a timer to only charge the battery from the grid on the cheapest over night rates?

I've seen plug n play solar on Amazan maybe since 2017. But the more I think about it, one would eventually need/install more-proper solar installation is must. There is still niche for this like condo-apartment with a nice balcony that faces the sun.

Saving a dollar or two a day adds up over the years, and you're giving a finger to the utilities and helping to decarbonize which has its own value. And it's also fascinating!

I’m assuming you have a bidirectional utility grid meter, as far as I understand the average house utility meter will accumulate kilowatts, not able to distinguish direction and you get charged for electricity going back to the grid as well, you have any thoughts on this?

Does the NEP unit have rapid shutdown when the grid goes down? Ul 3741

I have a 50amp plug in my garage that I don’t use cause the I don’t charge a EV I got a 50amp/120v adapter in case I ever wanted to use power from that outlet Would it be safe to plug my solar into that plug? I have net metering through my utility in my area that gives credits still thankfully, at least for now.

I’d be interested in something like this to charge some batteries that would power some exterior lights.

I have a Pecron E 2000 LFP, can I just make a double male extension cord and plug into a 20 amp house outlet from one of the 20 amp AC outlets on the generator?

That tiny setup would produce in a month 10% of the electric we consume. When it's comfortable and we don't use the AC, we use about 550 KWh a month. When it's hot and the AC is used, it sometimes will go up to 650-660 KWh. It would be nice to have but it wouldn't pay for itself easily. it cost $0.098 per KW here. Not even a dime. 60 KW of production during the summer per month or about $6. About 10 years the cost might be covered.

I tried 2 different wattages of grid-tie inverters, a 1kW and a 1.2kW. Ever since I tried them, my electric bill went through the roof. The bill was $490xx last month. Neither grid-tie has been used for the last 3 months. Any ideas why? I only got about 4-5A out of the inverters. My refrigerator, freezer, pool pump, garage, shop, and carport are all on off-grid solar. The only things left are the 240V stuff: clothes dryer, stove, central AC, and some 120vac kitchen stuff. There is no reason for the utility bill to be that high and never was before.

Does this unit output power when it is not plugged into the grid or the power is down?