Your Door NEEDS this Upgrade! DIY $40 Fingerprint Lock!

for the power just drill a hole through the back of the box into the shop and then you can use whatever method you want to connect it.

You might consider making the external handle one that has a key for an override. That way if there is ever a failure of the electronic lock (or a power failure), you can still get in your office.

You were told that’s it was unappealing huh? 😂 happens to me too sometimes. Awesome project as usual!

Also, for anyone wanting to DIY your own security door, mount your electronics on the INSIDE of the secure room. The only thing that should be outside is the reader. Otherwise someone can open up the electronics and bypass the security features. (LPL has a few videos showcasing this)

As someone who also has a locked area (my attic access and server closet) with a fingerprint reader, I would suggest adding a couple more of your finger prints from other finger. I cannot count the times I locked myself out because I cut/burned my finger, it was dirty, etc. I finally added a couple other fingers. Also you should put a hole through the wall and plug it in from inside your shop area. I assume the significant other doesn't care so much about what goes on in that room. If that is not an option either you can get flat ribbon speaker wire that you can barely see once applied on the wall and painted over. You would need to do you AC-DC conversion before your box, but you could throw that under that table, or put it in the wall behind a blanking plate. Congrats on the baby! He/she going to have a very cool dad!

For future reference, the electromagnet piece, it's called an Electronic Strike Plate, which helps with locating versions for both inner and external doors. Generally though, you're not gonna find many that fit within existing strike plate designs, simply because the latch does have to allow the pin to pass through where the strike plate is (and thus through part of the wall).

"Wife approved" is the most glorious label in our home. 😂 Ps. Congrats to the new family addition.

Just an FYI about your how to power something on the door side of things. There are hinges called electrified hinges, they are used for hotels and such where the readers need continuous power on the door. You can use a drill and drill a small hole from one side to the other or as some doors do it around the permitter. Still love your implementation, and yes I wish these are more common.

You should add a backup battery to the fingerprint box that can power it for at least a day straight, so if the power goes out you still can access the room. Or add a way for the keyhole to activate a mechanical bypass to get access to the room when the fingerprint reader isn't working for whatever reason.

Congratulations. May your child be blessed with all the electronic knowledge that you have.

Congratulations on having a baby!

CONGRATULATIONS on your new baby!

Congratulations with your new born! I had the exact same issue. My "lab" (mancave) is not the safest place. But I told my daughter what she can and cannot touch, and she listens very well (so far). I also installed a normal manual lock to the door. ;)

personally id set the led ring to blue as soon as the sensor is touched and reading, and then display either a solid green as it's approved, or a flashing red as it's ejected to make it feel a little more responsive :)

congratulations, a mini great scott, that's awesome

Go through the wall into the shop side. You could also move the controller in there and extend the sensor wire to only have that component on the entry side. Much cleaner install that way imo

Might be worth thinking about adding protective earth to the button metall hull. As its impropable but not impossible to get a connection in this case to L or N. Could do it with a metal sheet or pcb on the inside to which the button screws against.

IMO the best way to power this would be to just put a new cable in the wall, then put plaster and paint over it, if this lock system is a permanent solution. Otherwise, You could just drill a hole through the wall behind the box, and power it from the lab's side

Hi Scott, So glad you chose a solenoid striker. However, as other commenters have noted, you need to do one or two modifications for safety. When using this type of access mechanism, you always need a mechanical override. The easiest solution is to configure the latch with a mechanical lock. Normally this is kept locked and the striker is used to enable access. But when there is a failure the door can still be unlocked and unlatched as normal. You should be able to find a "privacy" version of the same latch handle, or one with a lock. You can then ignore the lock below. Alternatively, if the bolt on the lock can be shortened to work with the solenoid striker, then you can swap which ones use the solenoid striker and just leave the deadbolt locked normally. Finally, a couple security and safety fixes for the sensor/controller. You can add a battery backup as others have suggested, or you can provide a auxiliary power input. This will not be as secure, as someone could destructively apply over voltage from the outside, but I don't think that's in your threat model. So maybe it's a good solution, just put a barrel jack. The other thing is to move the controller inside the door. You want the controller inaccessible, and also maybe the wiring ducts will be less offensive if they are inside your studio and not in the hallway. Cool project! Excited for phase 2!

I use the same type of circuit to unlock and start my bike it was a lockdown project works like a charm and have been using the old fingerprint sensor will upgrade to the new one soon