Performing an Electrical Inspection According to the InterNACHI® SOP

Published 2020-01-17
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel: youtube.com/c/internachi?sub_confirmation=1 In this part of the nine-part video series on home inspections, follow along with Certified Professional Inspector® Ray Kline as he inspects the electrical system of a home according to InterNACHI's Home Inspection Standards of Practice.
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All Comments (17)
  • @dwaynes5983
    Thank you for great video. As for testing GFCI I use tester to show a real-world problem.
  • @MannyTheCook
    Missed that the circuit breakers were not labeled. The SOP does not require removal of the front panel cover, but double neutrals and aluminum wiring is a must have observation. I also check to make sure the breakers specially the A/C are the proper amperage, I have seen 60 amp breakers on heat pumps that require a maximum breaker of 35 amps this is considered unsafe.
  • Neat video and very informative, thanks! However, he refers to being "grandfathered" in several times. InterNACHI drills into you, in several courses, that there is no such thing. CPIs are to inspect according to CURRENT standards and best practices. They refer to code a lot as well, which was another point that was to be avoided according to the InterNACHI coursework. Great information and nice folks, regardless. Thanks for the video!
  • @kirkshirley1319
    We don't use aluminum wire anymore, we use an Aluminum Alloy wire called AA8000. This alloy does not require the use of NOALOX. NEC does not require the use of NOALOX.
  • @ubaldoperez1539
    Deox is not required per code and it’s optional, wire manufacturers coat their wire with deoxidazing c
  • @jamesmilton8990
    I am a new inspector, and i have heard mutliple say removing the dead front is not required, but everyone seems to do it anyway. Is this just an unwritten rule that everyone does it even thought its not required? Is it that customers just expect it so inspectors do it?
  • @jpeters3031
    Correct me if I am wrong but there are no requirements for Arc Fault or GFCI breakers in the panel. Also the panel cover is painted, should that be unpainted and grey?
  • @Thefalltopics
    Gotta say, pretty concerned about how easily this guy places his hands inside the box... being comfortable with electricity is one thing, but for those new inspectors out there, this is not a good way to present the information... this stuff can kill you. Remember future Inspectors, always make safety a priority #1
  • @DansVlog
    If a panel does not have a main disconnect, isn’t there supposed to be no more than six throws?
  • @CharlesBuell
    Deox is not required and if you can see it it is not installed properly. The ONLY recognized test of a GFCI or AFCI is the button on the device itself---never the button on a third party tester. A second recep for a countertop is not required unless it is over 9 square feet.
  • @shawneedog1
    Dude not worried bout that deadfront being energized....
  • @barryyeslow8267
    FAIL: Subpanel must not have a main bonding jumper. Deox is not required by Code or cable manufacturer. FAIL: Main breaker in main panel should be marked "service disconnect". FAIL: there is no grounding locknut on the conduit in the main panel coming from the meter socket. FAIL: the conduit in the main panel is required to be sealed because it goes from exterior of building to interior of building. FAIL: no mention of grounding electrodes to ground rod or water pipe. GFCI test button on receptacle is only approved method of testing. Depending on code when installed, only receptacles within 6' of sink are required to be GFCI. Later codes require all countertop receptacles to be GFCI and/or AFCI protection.
  • @grscklyr4dfbz
    I can read! If you're going to do a slow crawl and read just as slowly I'm going elsewhere.
  • @dallas5374
    Lots of misinformation in this video. Scary.