I tried finding Hidden Gems on AliExpress AGAIN! (Part 6)

As for screw extractors, you should use both sides of a bit with reverse (counter-clockwise, unscrewing) direction of a drill - check the flute directions out: they should bite in the screw and pull it out, not stroke it and drive it in. It is noticeable that in video it is done the wrong way at all times except at the end of video.

The last module you showed is a testing equipment board for testing modules (ie USB Audio boards, Pre-Amp boards, etc) which will also have a remote control bundled during packaging. USB audio boards work with 5V common, but Pre-amp boards work at 5,12 or even 24 V. Thats why they have added an IR tester section so that it would be handy to test those remotes too.😄

Please don't stop making these videos, they're really fun to watch

The T connectors are a knockoff of the 3M T-Tap — which comes in multiple sizes for different wire gauges. If they’re using the same color scheme, the blue should be for 14-16 gauge wires. I mostly see those (and the related Scotchlok splices) used in automotive or similar applications where you want to minimize the exposure of the original wire to oxygen and water.

The screw extractors are designed to be run in reverse and *slow speed* (I am a mechanical engineer and these items are invaluable)

For those of us on the decidedly hobby side of electronics, that last module looks like a great value!

Regarding battery 5v PCB. I used one and I'm very happy with it. There is a way to keep it on even with small load. There's additional pad on the other side (I believe it's called Key). It needs to be pulled low (I believe) to turn board on. In such way the board will be up while key is pulled to required polarity.

2 issues: T-tap connectors are generally used by car accessory installers, in those cases the mating ends are usually pre-terminated or pre-stripped, so it really is faster to just clamp the correct (color matching, red, blue) T-tap to send something like a low current remote signal, or 12v at less than 3A. Second, that ATX power supply trigger doesn't have a load resistor. I've run into ATX supplies that won't turn on without a load, and ideally you should have some sort of load to make the power supply regulate. I would expect a good ATX trigger to have a load resistor, otherwise you can't know what power supply the customer is plugging into it and thus get a bad experience.

FYI. The battery charger module has a "key" pad you can set low on a microcontroller or ground to disable the 30s auto cutoff.

What I also like about the lipo booster is the 3V undervoltage protection. Almost all other boosters or bms cut off at 2.5V which I think is too low.

I'm loving these ''Hidden Gems'' videos, please keep this series going. I'm discovering things that I didn't even know I needed. 😃

The thing with screw and bolt extractors is there's a certain way you need to use them. Otherwise you go round and round in circles. You need a clean hole. A hammer. And then the extractor needs to be turned counter clockwise while still putting pressure on the bit. As soon as it slips. Hammer again.

Would be cool to see a multi part series showing things to do with the LCD module. Basic GUI to control and in pouts and out puts then displaying some sensor data would be awesome. I'm just about to buy one myself to play with. Thanks for the video!

9:47 screw extractors worked for me, but I was drilling much, much slower to get into the head and of cause counterclockwise. It also depends on the kind of screws, stainless steels screws are harder to get out for example.

The wire splitters used to be known as "scotch lock" connectors. Everybody used them in the 80s and 90s for fitting stereos to cars, alarms, cd radios etc. They work for about 6 months until they fail by corroding.

Great Scott! These VFDs are loveliness - I'd love to get a 4x20 one for my vacuum tube tester, to make it even more funky than it is now. Thanks for the info on these ESP32 modules with display. That's definitely gonna come in handy for IoT / home automation projects.

Hi Scott! Maybe dumb question, but did you use your drill in reverse, while tried the screw remover stuff?

Almost looks like when testing the screw extractor that you had the screw extracting tap rotating in clockwise motion? And even if not, the hole was too big to start with and the tap was bottoming out and not capable of grabbing the screw. Could be that the exctractor is just plainly bad, but to me it looked like that the hole in the screw could have been too big in the first place.

I love these videos of yours. They are like getting a wrapped present each time. I think the LCD display you showed looks really interesting

Excellent video once again! Do love those VFDs! Have you considered testing P-Tap connectors to split the cable? Doesn't cut in like a normal T-Splitter. Not sure about the resistance, but it would be a great demonstration. :D I love these series. You get to test the things I'm too afraid to waste money on... The risk sometimes is definitely worth it though! Great find on the breakout board. Keep it up! Much love from the UK!