How to remove a corroded exhaust flange stud

Just had an exhaust flange stud snap on me. Had very limited access but a reciprocating saw worked a charm. Cut and a few light taps and it was out. Thank you so much.

Inductor heater, air chisel. Quick and neat no flange damage.

Great tip Alan! when i did mine downpipe on my Mk3 Mondeo couple years back, nuts on the catalytic converter end were so rotted that they looked like 2 layers of tin foin wrapped around the stud. luckily threads were saveable ;)

Nice job Alan , I usually cut off the thread , and drill through the stud a couple of times and bolt it back together, at least no damage to catalytic converter either way 👍

Ive always drilled them out but a quick way of getting them always good to learn new tricks and have other options only thing I think would be abit more difficult is trying to grind stub at top getting grinder in but still a very good idea

Utilised this method today and it worked an absolute treat, thanks Alan!

Cut the stud off and then drill the rest out. Would of looked cleaner.

I just got an arc welder. Makes me want to give that quick zap, a bit of a mend and a bit of tidying up. Love the strategy.

This is why High temperature paint is so great, I coat all my cars exhaust parts with it and the metal will not absorb moisture. I have been doing this for decades and have none of these problems!

OMG! I wish you had posted this video 2 weeks ago! I had the same issue trying to remove the dpf from my 2010 2.0 tdci S-Max. I opted to cut the studs flush with the flange and then drill them out… It worked, but it took me the best part of 4 hours to do 2 flanges. 🤦‍♂️

Three of four wasn't too bad to change. The Fourth one i put the 7/16-14 on and tried to clean up the threads because it was stuck. But the threads weren't cleaning up either. So.. it's had various capillary action sprays on it awhile..a couple weeks. The other day a mechanic friend suggested transmission fluid for something else. And I remembered brake fluid and transmission fluid mixed.. and I poured some on and hour ago and it's going to be out in a few minutes. It's loose now. I just have to finish up. But it's a big deal to have air leaks before the oxygen sensor so I wanted to start with good bolts and be able to snug it down good.

Great seeing you back Alan and thank you for sharing

If you have a acetylene torch I would deffinatly say heating around the stud then one nice whack usualy does it for me .

Thank you. this method over anything you can get cutting tools in and around the exhaust very easily, but trying to drill it out like some people say “would be better” but like your saying in the video if your gonna do that you need to remove the hole exhaust bit to make that work effectively and/or pray your drill actually fits in that specific area !

Great job Alan, every day is a learning day, Thank You👌👍

Excellent work! About to go give it a try right now. Both of my studs are gone and require this same surgery. I tried drilling the stud remnant out, but I think the stud is only slightly softer than my drill bit.

Here, in the US of A, we use "PB Blaster" to soak the rust before we try these kind of tasks. It is a rust penetrant, works wonders, seeps through seemingly impossibly narrow spaces (microscopic), makes a path for itself by dissolving rust and seeping further.

Spilned studs on an exhaust assembly flange. What moron tbought that was a good idea. You had a great solution to the problem which took the issue back to what shohld have been their "day one" nut and bolt

Not in our wildest dreams would we be able to retread a stud that had deteriorated to a smaller size and expect it to hold up under the stress of torque and heat and last for any length of time . Replacement was the only option . Although splined studs are not always easy to remove , even when heat is applied , it’s still easier than a threaded stud for removal . I’ve had success on thinner flanges with heat , and I don’t even own acetylene torches but used MAP gas . After heating until it smokes heavily , a socket on the stud end a C press on the other end to produce tension , followed by some concentrated tapping to shock the stud loose . Such as removing a ball joint , readjust tension when tapping and introducing shock to loosen the stud until the splines back out . Before beginning the removal process however , I will try cleaning away as much rust as possible and apply a penetrating oil in hopes that it will lubricate the splines and free up the rust bond as best as possible . You will always want to clean away as much rust from the head of the stud and threads where they go through the hole in the flange so there is the minimal of rust bond for a successful extraction of the stud . Yes , cutting the flange to relieve tension and aid extraction works but I really do try to avoid cutting unless I’ve no choice . That is a healthy sized flange and should be quite strong but heat from the catalytic converter will eventually cause it to bend . Respecting that this is a quick fix when time is of the essence and the exhaust has only a limited time left in this world before your MOT Lads condemn it to the junk pile , it’s what gets the job done . I speak from personal ownership as though it’s got to last twenty years or so since I personally keep a vehicle an eternity as it is anyway . While everyone has their methods , I will say that cutting and relieving will absolutely get the old stud out . Re-welding is not likely to last if that is a cast steel flange . The heat cycles from the exhaust will eventually weaken it . A body can try heat as you’ve suggested and pressing it out but time is always the deciding factor . You’ve got to keep them rolling and quickly , granted . Just hope the MOT lads haven’t a difference with this plan of attack . I should think not or you wouldn’t take this route . Well , to each his own but I will say , yes , this will definitely work . This thick flange will go a while in service with this repair for at least long enough before mileage has this vehicle either parted out or on its way to the furnace . The taxis rack up mileage so it’s a question of whether mileage dictates removal from service or wear and tear does first . Anyway , under the circumstances , this is a quick and acceptable repair for the needs . If all else fails , miss Monica’s input is always welcome ❤️

Did this today...I tried drilling out but it was woukd have taken hours. I cut a groove with the grinder. Job done. Than you so much.