How to Repair a Rotted Wood Post: Easy DIY Guide

Spends a week on a job instead of an hour with a new post. WOW

For goodness sake. The negative comments. It isn't like he is building a footing for a sky scraper.Nice job sir. It will work.

Just put a new post in. Simple.

I'm a timberframe repairman. There is a great reason why I've never seen this done before. Could just repaired it with liquid wood. Probably would've lasted longer. Kudos for trying though. Red some comments and there was some good suggestions. Replace whole post, use the right base, use correct species of wood, support the work. I would recommend if you had to fix the bottom of a post, use a 16" - 24" half-lap joint, bolted together, no shims. This joint will rot twice as fast as the original ( or faster). Don't mean to be "that guy" but this helps no one and may get someone killed. Hire a pro if you don't know.

Better to do a lap joint. Or if going for a tongue and groove you should put the tongue on the lower piece facing up so you don’t have a water flow path and trap. This fix is going to rot fast…

How did the finished joint have such a big gap? I thought it was all measured and test fitted to be a tight fit? What went wrong?

Wow everyone here is an expert

In reading the comments, I’m reminded of why I’ve not been OFF of FB for approximately 7 yrs now. Many negative comments from guys who I bet have probably never built anything and probably don’t even own a circular saw. There is more than one way to skin a cat, which is often missed by those who are critical and void of real world experience. I applaud your video , Great Job Sir!

The saddle that’s installed is for a 4 x 4, first you should use the right saddle.

Undoubtedly, but, ingenious assignment. Thanks

I've been doing home repairs, painting, ground up construction in South Texas since the mid-70's, and you can label me as lazy. That said, I'd have either 1) replaced the entire post, coated the bottom with creosote or tar, put some sort of composite trim around the base after totally filling that 1" space with pool caulk, OR, 2) remove the post and do all that cutting on sawhorses. But, like I said, I'm lazy.

Good job sir! It's your project 👍

You did a great job. I'm a welder as opposed to a woodworker. I think, I would have built an extension for the metal portion. After a good cleanup and some zinc primer, you could fit the upper portion as needed and attach it to the fresh cut on the support. Welders tend to over-engineer everything. Your method was a great way to do it and you displayed the patience to achieve your objective. Once again.....great plan, good job.

Good job and thanks for sharing

Nice job but there is a support not 6 feet away. I would have lifted roof every so slightly and replaced the whole upright beam.

Being a painter for years, I suggest using a water sealer that soaks up into the wood. It will dry and keeps water out. Good quality sealer will last for years and can be recoated from time to time.

at 16:35 he said we have a level 🤣😂🤣

for all the trouble to cut & fit , also the way of support beam not worth to fooling around , just replace the entire column, safer , easier, and times saving,

Saws all cures all

Structurally, this method weakens the post against lateral movement. The proper way to splice would be to use a 4 sides metal sleeve and cut the ends flat. Easier fix also.