How to Run Permanent Temporary Power to a Shed

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I'm an older dude, and I don't have my dad around to answer these questions, so I'm pretty grateful there's someone out there teaching these things

Got a little emotional watching this. How could that be? I'm relatively new to Jeff, but his personality reminds me of Rich, my father-figure when I was growing up. He was kind, smiled along as he could fix anything... explained everything to me as if I was smart enough to understand. He had some cool and funny sayings, "to boot". He had such an easy going, optimistic attitude. He passed long ago, at 50. At 60 (dunno how I made it this far), throughout my life, everytime I'm working on something he's always watching over me. And when I get negative or feel I can't get something fixed, Rich is right there guiding me through it all, just like when I was a kid. Rich was an Electrician at trade, but fixed everything... just like Jeff. Very sincere thank you to both these men for helping us all out...

Great video. Two comments: 1) instead of having the male plug hanging outside, you can purchase a generator plug inlet and mount it on the side of the shed. 2) the screw slots on the plates are vertical because dust is less likely to collect compared to if the slots are horizontal.

When wiring the wire to the outlets I had an experience where I only used my cordless drill/screwdriver to attach the wires. I went back to a location that I had wired a year later and noticed black scorch marks above a light switch. I opened the cover and noticed that the cordless driver hadn’t tightened the screws on the switch to the point that they wouldn’t move, so everytime someone flipped the switch on or off a little bit of movement would loosen the screw, after a years time the screw was so loose that everytime the switch was flipped a spark would occur. I’m grateful I discovered my error as it could have very easily started a fire. From that point onward I made sure that after I attached wires to switches or plugs that I would follow through with a manual screwdriver and give everything one more twist to make sure that they won’t ever work themselves loose. When you did your switch you said not to worry, that you did not want them too tight, I think you should reconsider that and ensure that they are tight enough so that they won’t ever loosen, it can be dangerous otherwise. Other than that it’s an excellent video and it’s very informative, I love the electric tape on the white wire!

Didn't check all the comments for this, but one suggestion for wiring, "First to make, Last to break", talking about the ground wire. That way, if you just happen to be working on a live circuit, the electricity travels down the path of least resistance, that ground wire, and not you.

I was wondering when Jeff would realize he forgot the yellow plug backend... and then the edit happened haha MAGIC!

I noticed how suddenly the sleeve portion of the plug appeared. Apparently you had to take it apart to slide that sleeve on off camera. I’ve had to do that so many times while replacing power cord ends and so glad there was nobody watching me. lol

I like running electric in my chicken coops and their runs. I used two timers so the lights in the run turn off half an hour before the coop to draw the chickens inside to eat and drink before they roost for the night. A dusk to dawn porch light for me and a couple of outlets for accessories like the water warmer. I also added a couple outside outlets to power the occasional yard tool

“Permanent temporary” is my new favorite way of alluding to a fix that’s legally dubious.

You can also place a ground fault outlet on your first outlet to protect the run.

Leviton makes a great connector you can use for “temporary” power connections. 15 Amp 125-Volt Straight Blade Grounding Power Inlet Outlet, Gray

Hi Jeff, I am in Ireland, I worked for an American Railway Signalling Company here for 11 years. All our slotted screws were always vertical - Reason given was moisture can run down the slot and also while all being Vertical, then looked better. Perhaps just me but I would have run Plastic Conduit along the horizontal run, would have looked very professional. Good work, Great at explaining. Here in Ireland, The UK and Europe in general, Brown = Live, Blue=Neutral and Green/Yellow striped = Earth (CPC). Old Colours were Red =Live, Black= Neutral and Green=Earth (CPC). Philips and Robertson screws :) well we have our problems here too, Metric and Imperial pipe fittings mixed in the one installation , especially something built from 30 years ago and parts upgraded. So you could have 1/2 inch Copper, 1/2 inch Qualpex (plastic imperial) and 15mm Acorn (Grey metric) and perhaps Polly Pipe and fittings outside which would be for 1/2 and 3/4 black plastic hose pipe with both thick and standard wall thickness with White and light blue inserts for thick and thin or vice versa, Only the correct one will fit.

Thank you for the comprehensive video on how to get it done. I appreciate your explanation of key details. Very helpful to DIYers. I would caution that most local codes do define “temporary,” meaning that after the end of the “temporary” period (usually months - NOT years as you described) an inspection WILL be required! This is not to criticize your work - your procedures are sound. BTW, a good electrical contractor has one (or more) techs who focus solely on small jobs. Small jobs create thankful & loyal customers. Guess who they’ll call when they have a bigger job? Being willing to take on small jobs makes loyal customers at the very least, and has the potential to win bigger jobs down the road, either thru repeat business or referrals. IMHO, having one (or more) techs who focus solely on small jobs pays off in the long run.

Only thing different i would have done is instead of that male plug hanging out the side of the shed, install a little portal with a door you can just open and feed your extesion through when in use and then the connection is inside the shed out of the weather and out of public view

You should hook up ground first neutral second and black last as a good practice, in some case see people think the turned power off and didn’t if you hook up hot first you are now working live

42:00 starts putting the plug on the wire without putting the back part of the plug on first. 42:19 the back part has jumped onto the wire without taking the rest of the plug back off through the magic of editing. 😂 We've all been there at some point. Things like putting a wonderful flare on the end of some copper tubing and then realizing you didn't put the nut on first. Sigh. Cuts off flare I just made, puts nut on tubing, makes new flare on end of tubing

I received a deep gash on my finger from a installation just like this one. The light switch had a full sized plate sitting on top of a box on an unfinished wall, exactly as in this video. Reaching in the dark to flip the switch on my finger caught the razor-sharp corner of the plate instead. There are small outline outlet plates, usually in grey plastic, that just barely cover the edges of a standard electrical box. They are made for installations like this.

I used a boat/RV adapter that fits into the wall. I assumed that's what you were going to install when you drilled that big hole in the wall... not just a dangling bit of cord. The inset adapter has a male plug set inset, and has a cap to seal it when not in use.

Here in MN, we hold our drrill at our hip to keep the holes level. We also use a Milwaukee right anglel, but that is commercial electric. There are obviously more than one way to accomplish this. Some people make a leveling stick but that takes too much time for production.