First Sizing After Fireforming

I go through all those processes but you have no idea how much help you just provided to a lot of people. VERY VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO that people can understand. Thanks

Keith, so many avenues folks have put out to follow. Here's my take on how you do it. Thanks for putting so many important fractions together that somehow make sense in layman's terms in order to follow. There are a few others out there who give good, simplistic information however, your methodical approach is quite refreshing. I myself am just starting down this path/rabbit hole, with regards to reloading. Have stumbled a few times yet when a good video such as yours comes out, my rejuvenation invigorates the passion to not give up and continue marching forward. I am glad so many folks who really care about this sport, take their time to help us all become better.

Excellent!! The most thorough method and explanation I have ever listened to how to properly resize brass! Thanks for all your work on this!!!

Thank you so much for detailing this. As a new reloader I was surprised at the difference when I measured the 1 fired brass against the comparator. You validated what I suspected as well as my inclination to measure them all and sort them. Phew!

This video is seriously beyond value. I’ve dealt with more dimension problems or inconsistencies during sizing than during any other phase of the process. I think your method will completely make those problems go away. thank you for all of your great content!

Thank you for introducing truths about these processes. I haven't made time for 10 plus years to enjoy the reloading or shooting i genuinely love. These videos take the edge off. I truly enjoy looking for insights. Really enjoy watching these. Thank you, NE Oregon -

Don’t forget that the ejector plunger is spring loaded and can (will) fly out if you are not careful. There are 3D printable jigs on thingiverse that have a plunger that will hold the plunger down while removing the roll pin and allow you to release the plunger and spring slowly to avoid this.

Thanks again Keith for your time and great advice !

Keith, as always, great information and very well explained! You have a wealth of knowledge and experience! 👍

Just a great video and it answered some questions I have had for quite some time. Thank you sir.

GM Keith just wanted to thank you for share your knowledge and tips with us out here! I appreciate all that you do for us in sharpening are skills so we can better at the thing we like to do. 😊

I'm glad you went with the disassembled bolt method. This is how I set my sizing die. When there is a tiny drag at near closed, I know I am good.

Thank you. This cleared up what I was dealing with yesterday

Thorough Keith. Excellent. Good on you.

Wow, this is why I would have been happy if you did this in an indoor range. With scientific test you try to keep external variables as minimal as possible. Still very interesting, not at all what I expected.

One thing to consider is that the angel of the die and the chamber is not always the same and can give false results/measurements . On my 3 308win dies it will vary 3 thousand if I size to slight drag on the bolt 💡 Soo... I think that it's better to size the test-brass first to bump the shoulder to the new angel and then with tejp-shim figuring out what the zero headspace is ☆ Theri also a method that I call the bang-method 😅 Size thfe brass to fit the chamber without drag. Put a live primer in the brass and shoot it >> Now have the primer expanded to fill the gap and probably 1/2 thousand on the plus side. Test the bang-case in the camber and gently tap the protruding primer in until the bolt just dragging... , monitoring the process with the calipers while tapping and testing . Now you have a perfect fitted brass dummy to measure from 🤝

This is really helpful. The chamber confirmation and final length sorting are steps I had not considered. Whereas I have 2 cans of 1X fired brass (Starline 223 & Alpha 6 Dash), I am definitely going to add these steps. The only comment I have is for torqued (no nut) barreled actions and consideration of the applied torque. While torqued actions will not have the same variability as nutted barrel/actions, the technique of double checking actual final head-space may still have a benefit. Of course, starting with the same torque for the "next" barrel is also important. Thanks for this valuable insight, and all your contributions to the sport.

Good job explaining your process - both how and why. I don’t need to hand load to your level of accuracy; however, it is very helpful to know that not all once-fired brass from a given rifle will be the same. I had assumed incorrectly that it would be the same.

Excellent tutorial and explanation

Masking tape when removing ejector pin and spring with a BIG magnet. I found a little tiny spring six months after it went "fling" lol I have go and some no go gauges but have made a set of feeler guages for the bolt faces in .001 increments so i know before hand what my chambers are. I dont use a comparator. I use RCBS mics and measure the headspace guage to make sure they are the same "0". and measure brass before and after firing. Always goid video's you produce that are spot on. I guess because they agree with what i do mostly!!!!!! Lol These youngsters could learn alot if they listen! Good job as always Keith.