Broke-off bolts techniques

1)Slow the drill speed. 2)Left hand drill bits. 3)Lube the bits. 4)Heat around the bolt, not the bolt.

here is my comment ,your a hard working young man trying to help people, by reading through the comments and your going to pick up a lot of good info that some of us have been doing this type of things for 40 or 50 years good job,,,keep up the good work

My grandfather was in the Army Corps of Engineers (as a commisioned officer) back in the 1950s. He told me one of their mottos was "don't tell me why you can't, tell me how you can. Well, brother...you certainly lived up to that motto in this video. Of course, when you live on a farm, it's basically do or die. Whatever the case may be, great job, brother.

As a shade tree mechanic who at times has tried and failed to remove difficult broken-off studs, I thought it might be easier if I had better tools. Watching you made me understand that better tools, combined with training and experience, made the job possible, but not necessarily easier. Thanks for the video and for sharing your tips with us.

Tip from a hobby machinist: don't run a drill wide-open in steel! It can't get a good bite running that fast and you just end up dulling your bit. Start slow, and as it cuts more and more, you can start to bring the speed up. I typically don't get over half-throttle with a battery powered hand drill. The thicker and/or harder the steel, the slower you need to go.

I worked on the railroad for over 30 years ...the best way to remove a stud is to just weld a flat washer to the broken off stud.then put a larger nut and weld to the waxher thru the hole...dont wast your time with a torch. The welding heats it up and then the outside of the nut is pristeen for a socket. On an impact gun. On the holes that are stripped , you can drill it out a d insert a bolt thru the back with a piece of flatbar welded on the head so it wont twist. Ir. Wld up the hole, aneal with a torch and then tap or use a Helicoil insert. Thanks for your video

Great video. I especially like how it got machinists and others to add their helpful hints. Very Educational.

Well done. I admire the absence of profanity in addition to the patience and skill the job took

i liked how you prefaced it with not blaming the guy that cobbled it together before. I've really been keeping in my mind you never know what someone is going through and so it makes sense they made a on the spot repair that may have looked like junk. glad that you fixed it right and took the time to explain everything. it was fun to watch the whole way through

Old machinist tip: aluminum fast, steel slow. (in regard to drilling or cutting speeds)

your videos prove the old saying your never to old to learn i am 70 years old CHEERS AND GOD BLESS YOU KEEP SAFE

I'm restoring a 1948 Willys CJ-2A that spent its life on a farm. I've seen so many of these same "bubba" repairs that need fixing it blows my mind. I've seen crazy repair attempts to a Pittman arm that only cost $30 to replace with a brand new one. Bubba is a thrifty guy. Anyway multiple broken studs have brought me to this video in hopes of ideas on how to proceed. Thanks for a very informative video and beautiful repair job.

Weld a washer over top of the broken stud, fill up the hole in the washer. Then weld a hex nut or larger bolt to the washer. It's MUCH easier than trying to weld a bolt to the stud.

Good stuff! I dig the long cut, no BS videos. Just work and information from start to finish. And props for talking to the viewers. It's rarely understood how much really goes into a video like this. Subbed

35 yrs doing this stuff, little tip is set the bolt 3/4 way off center of the broke stud and then get a good fillet from the broken stud to the bolt. it's much stronger than a little ring around the outside. thanks for the video

well done finally someone shows how to do it and more importantly the real world aspect not the perfect world version where it all goes right the first time

That 6011 won't take the vibration of the impact. Also, I like to spray a combination of transmission fluid and diesel after the heating. As the metal cools the oil is drawn in around the stud and makes removal easier. You did a good job anyway.

I appreciate your videos very much. I am 70 and learned a lot from old machinist's. Your appreciation and respect for trades is a rare thing now days. I have machines from the 40's and still cranking out parts.

Good job. A trick for you: to start a bolt, a nut, or a screw = first, turn it counter-clockwise, until you feel it fall into matching threads. This helps to prevent cross-threading... Greatly! You'll like it.

The before and after are as stark as day and night. I enjoyed watching, learning. Thanks.