Get In Loser, We're Going Shopping (in the 18th Century) šŸ›

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Published 2020-12-20
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A common misconception that is perpetuated about history is that people made their own clothes. All the time. For all of history. However, this simply isn't true. Just like today, there are only so many hours in a day, and there is always so much to do, to just function throughout your day. So, today, I want to walk you all through how people actually bought their clothes in the 18th and early 19th centuries, with a lot of explanation about the three main clothing trades: Tailors, Milliners, and Mantua-makers.

So, now, people didn't make their own clothes back then. During the 18th & most of the 19th centuries, people paid skilled professionals to cut, fit, and sew custom clothes for them. If they couldn't have new clothes made, they would have old clothes remade. In some parts of Great Britain and during some time periods, second-hand clothing was an option too (but I don't talk about that here, btw) ((it also wasn't a thing the Colonies -- too much money & too much pride)). šŸ˜‚

šŸ„³Socials
Instagram: www.instagram.com/abbyelyn
Patreon: www.patreon.com/abbycox
Tiktok: @nabs_co

šŸ“šMy books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ

The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq

šŸ§µA Couple of Sewing Manuals:

Workwoman's Guide, 1838: archive.org/details/TheWorkwomansGuide

The Science & Geometry of Dress, 1876: archive.org/details/sciencegeometryo01jack/mode/2uā€¦

šŸ–¼Images Used

Qu'en dites-vous?, 1818, British Museum www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_2003-U-1ā€¦

The Morning Ramble, 1782 British Museum, www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1935-052ā€¦

Nine Tailors Make a Man, 1774, British Museum www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_2010-708ā€¦

The Pretty Mantua-Maker, 1772, British Museum www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1895-061ā€¦

A Millinerā€™s Shop, 1787, British Museum, www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1851-090ā€¦

Intelligence on the Change of the Ministry, 1783, British Museum, www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_2010-708ā€¦

Manā€™s Uncut Waistcoat, c. 1760, LACMA collections.lacma.org/node/214535

Le Bon Genre, Une Parisienne Ć  son lever, 1815, British Museum www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1900-031ā€¦

The Bum Shop, 1785, British Museum www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1932-022ā€¦

Barbara Johnsonā€™s Album from 1746-1823, Victoria and Albert Museum collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O140029/album-unknown/

A Domestick Scene, 1740s, British Museum, www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1937-110ā€¦

Atelier de Modistes, 1815, British Museum www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1866-040ā€¦

The Pretty Milliners, 1781, British Museum, www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_2010-708ā€¦

The Man of Feeling, in search of indispensibles; a scene in the little French Milleners, 1800, British Museum, www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1851-090ā€¦

The Man Milliner, 1783, British Museum www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1861-051ā€¦

The Unwelcomed Customer, 1772, British Museum, www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1860-062ā€¦

The devil among the tailors, 1805, British Museum
www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1977-U-2ā€¦

Le Lever des Modistes, 1830, British Museum, www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1886-101ā€¦

Trade Card for Turner & Hitchcock Milleners, 1803, British Museum, www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_D-2-3053

Advertisement, Milliners & Haberdashers, c. 1800, British Museum, www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_Heal-86-ā€¦

Houses on the Corner of Red Crosse Street and Fore Street, Cripplegate, 1850, British Museum,
www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1880-111ā€¦

Trade card of Daniels, Tailor, 1810, British Museum, www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_D-2-4357

Trade card, T.Beck, Tailor, 1805, British Museum, www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_D-2-4361


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All Comments (21)
  • The trick is having lots of unmarried, childless aunts and uncles living with you in a larger family compound to spread expertise and labor around.
  • So what you're telling me is that Elizabeth Swan was not being āœØ fashionably tightlacedāœØ by her maid, she was just trying to shove her into the dress daddy ordered a size too small. Got it.
  • Video request: laundry! How did people wash their garments, both fancy and not, and how do we modern people best care for ours, both fast fashion and handmade?
  • So what I'm hearing is costumers gotta specialise and then we can trade skills to make garments for each other :P
  • @mizwoody1
    Your video reminded me of a Napoleon Bonaparte quote: History is a set of lies agreed upon.
  • @NamiSparrow
    Itā€™s so funny learning about this because itā€™s basically how I get all my custom clothing done in India so it sounds totally ā€œnormalā€ to me. When I shop for Indian clothes in India I basically just buy the fabric pre embroidered and take it to our tailor to sew up for us. Itā€™s how all saris are sold actually and you get the blouse piece custom sewn to your measurements!
  • The best thing I read about shopping in Georgian Dublin was that the wealthy would sometimes pull up in front of the shops in their carriages, and the shop-owners would carry the goods out to them, for the wealthy customers to peruse from the comfort of said carriages. However, some gangs of thieves mimicked this by hiring a fancy carriage and getting ahold of upper-class clothing, and stealing the goods when the shop keeper brought them out to the carriage! I read about this anecdote in an academic journal article, published a few years ago, that looked at consumerism in 18th century Ireland.
  • @jenninstitches
    It's about time people started understanding trades. I think this bugs me because my dad was a custom cabinet maker and furniture maker and I was a pastry chef that specialised in sweets/chocolates. How much we know isn't a matter of what is in the book. There is so much that is orally taught and then the experience of the day in and day out of doing the thing. I want people today to give things a go if they are interested, and I still want to learn more and hone in my own expertise in things. However, sometimes just because you can doesn't mean you should and people used to know that once upon a time.
  • @esme8694
    This title alone is *chefs kiss* šŸ˜
  • @Chappysmom
    I remember reading Louisa May Alcott when I was a kid, and she was always talking about "turning your gown" to get another year's worth of wear out of them, and the day I understood what that MEANT! Plus the concept of buying lengths of fabric and bringing them to your dressmaker--historical fiction actually written in history made for really useful childhood reading for historical perspective. And, of course, Spinsters as the unmarried maiden aunt got their name because they were the female in the house who "had time" to do all that time-consuming spinning/weaving/sewing because she didn't have the responsibilities of the woman of the house (cough).
  • @TheMetatronGirl
    Fascinating subject! I always thought the ā€œwomen did everythingā€ idea was a myth. I mean, we are amazing, but even we have limits. Much love to you and yours!
  • @Marialla.
    I love thinking of fabric for a dress in terms of "how many days of income did this cost" rather than "cost per yard". To say I would pay one day's income for a basic dress (fabric yardage plus notions/embellishments) puts things into perspective for me. I'm just glad I don't live in the days where we had to spin our own flax and weave our own cloth just to have one new linen undergarment every year!
  • As an Aussie, itā€™s strange to remember that other counties donā€™t have as many Irish and Scottish and even Welsh names about. Siobhan is not an uncommon name here. Neither is Niamh. There are some less common names, where you might have to help someone out with the pronunciation, like GrĆ inne (Gronya), or Aoife (eefa), but we do tend to have plenty of Bronwyns and Maeves (also spelt Meadhbh) and Bridgets and Rhiannons about, and the proportion of traditional names spelt in the original Gaelic is increasing. Iā€™ve also met many Anguses and Hamishes (that last one is pretty popular here), Connors and Declans. Not so many Tadhgs (Tadhg is pronounced like tiger, without the ā€œerā€ part), but even thatā€™s growing. Itā€™s funny, because I see a lot of Irish American and Scottish American pride, whereas here in Australia, we donā€™t really use the prefix, weā€™re just Aussies, maybe with some Irish or Scottish ancestry (and this could then lead to discussions of Plastic Paddys or Styrofoam Scots, but we wonā€™t go into that now). My nana (all of my mumā€™s family, actually) was Scottish, she spoke and sang in GĆ idhlig (trad folk is awesome!), and she taught me many traditional songs, and I do have a little GĆ idhlig from her.... but Iā€™d never describe myself as Scottish. Iā€™ve never left Australia. But- even though Americans seem to care a lot more about their ancestry, they donā€™t tend to use the traditional names that much, and that is really quite strange to me. Why not? Theyā€™re lovely names, and honestly, Gaelic (both Irish and Scottish Gaelic) pronunciation is actually easier than English, once you know what the combinations sound like. And yes, I did indeed write this lengthy comment based off of Abby having to sound out how to pronounce Siobhan. Itā€™s been on my mind lately, I guess. Also, I havenā€™t finished my first coffee and I tend to blabber when Iā€™m tired. Or hopped up on painkillers (and Iā€™m currently both). So my apologies for the long, yet supremely unimportant comment.
  • @CarmenShenk
    There is also the information and skills that have historically been passed from parent to child. To this day, Mennonite and Amish motherā€™s/aunts/grandmothers teach the young women to sew, and this is how I learned. People like Tasha Tudor may have been an anomaly, she had an amazing range of the old skills. Many Mennonites were passing down those skills well into the 21st century. Our older generation didnā€™t gain those skills from watching a tailor or dress maker, they knew how to do it because they participated with their parents at home or on the farm. They knew how to care for a horse or dairy cow, how to grow a garden, or how to make a quilt from scraps and quilt it with insanely tiny stitches. I was fitted for dresses from a very squirmy young age, and saw women sewing all the time, as well as canning peaches and making apple sauce, which we now buy instead of doing the work. It wasnā€™t until I came across Bernadette Banner that I heard the dressmakerā€™s term of ā€œfellingā€, to me it was just finishing a seam. I have a friend who is really good at making apple butter each year, but Iā€™ve never taken the time to learn - so the old skills do require the participation of the younger generation and thatā€™s not always present these days. These days kids may not learn such practical skills as making clothing from their parents, so thank goodness for YouTube educators like you who can fill in the gaps or weā€™d all fall victim to Zombies in the early days of the apocalypse. šŸ’œšŸ’™šŸ’š
  • @CathyHay
    Thank you Abby, this filled in lots of gaps in my knowledge! It does raise a question for me - Would a milliner have been lower status than a mantua maker, or was it just a different trade of equivalent value? I know 19th c is not your primary expertise, but I'm extrapolating - when Worth first opened his business in 1858, he was described disparagingly as a "man milliner", meant to express discomfort with a guy designing women's clothes. I had read that "milliner" was equivalent to "dressmaker" at the time, but after you explained the difference here, I'm wondering whether describing him as a "milliner" could have been intended as an extra put-down, or perhaps it was just a mistake.
  • @catherinerw1
    Reminds me of a scene at the beginning of Arabella (Georgette Heyer, set 1816 or so), where our heroine is about to go to London to make her splash, and her mother (who was super-fashionable in her youth, around 1790s) goes up to her trunks, and gets all her old dresses out, so that they can take them to the Harrogate mantua-maker to be remade! (Recommended as an audiobook while sewing too...) Happy Christmas Abby and family! Cx
  • @aprillen
    It always makes me laugh when characters in historically inspired fantasy novels (or bad historical romance novels) get a complete set of new fashion garments made in, like, a day. Or get them second-hand and they just inexplicably fit perfectly.
  • @maireadks1509
    Amazes me how much we just assume we know about the past, and how much wisdom we lost in the interest of capitalism - the idea of the 18th century still having its version of ā€œfast fashionā€ but with so much less waste than we do today is super interesting