Another Simple Solution To A Common Problem Created By Stair Builders - Deck Nosing Or No Nosing

nosing is rarely the issue. Most of the time it is a problem with unequal rises either at the top or bottom step.

As a ICC building inspector I approve the video. We have many DYI projects in my state and this will certainly save them time and money. We charge $150 for Rejected Inspections in our City.

Thank you! The guys I hired to build my deck thirty(!) years ago walked off the job without doing the steps......so I 'knocked them out' one weekend. They've worked AND lasted, but with not a single rise or run equal to another, now I know why everybody's always tripped walking up or down them!

Stair nosing are actually a safety item when descending stairs as they prevent heel clip on the riser. If you’re going to be a carpenter be a carpenter put a nosing on it.

good video! little things like same size steps can save more accidents than we realize

Thank you for sharing.👍🏼 Following code is basic instruction in apprentice training starting with forms and foundations. Our MLP's (manipulative lesson plan) says it on every page. By the time you get to framing, it is burned in your brain simply because code will vary and even drawings can illustrate something that won't pass where you are. I picked up as good of workers habits as I could in my union JATC training. I enjoyed this topic you posted 👍🏼

I'm no carpenter, not a joke. However, I have a friend who is and he builds stairs for himself with 5" risers. His preference for this dimension is due to having to wear braces on his legs due to a degenerative bone disease. I have neuropathy and have had knee surgery. At 74, I don't anticipate any improvement. Once I walked up his stairs it took all strain off my knees and descending the stairs with my numbness was made easier. I realize that this extends the staircase; but where feasible it is a great help to those with mobility issues. Also, on site stairs, dock stairs and the like it makes carrying stuff up and down easier and I feel its safer.

That was amazing. Thanks Redbar!

Stairs without nosing are ok for barns. All nosings from top to bottom should line up. Your foot can feel a 1/4 " difference in rise.

Excellent video, btw. Informative and to the point.

I like bumping it up one more riser making the top tread flush with the top of the deck. It finishes really nice.

thanks for making this easy to follow.

We would make sure there is a nosing on each step and the deck edges. The one thing I would point out in this case, is that is the stringer run are 11” and if you need a 1” nosing, the dimensional lumber needed will have to be a combination of standard and custom cut boards. If a treated board gets ripped down to suit the size needed, I’d suggest routering the cut edge and treating it to prevent rot and decay. Our best practice is to keep the stringer length at 10” with a 1” nose to use 2 sections of 2 X 6 treated boards. Thanks for the video, most people don’t understand these concepts and this is explained very well.

Oh yeah bring back memories when I started back in the early 80s. Got to pay attention n double check all measurements. You are so correct. Thanks bruh

Another great video! In my case on my upcoming porch stair build, the porch has a narrow facia protruding out 1-3/4" from the deck which long story short, will not look good if I remove it. I want my tread nosing to be 3/4" so would the best way to resolve this be to add an inch wide ledger below the facia to reduce the protruding facia down to 3/4"? My new total run would be reduced by an inch as well correct? Sorry if this is obvious, first time stair builder here!

Thanks for the video. I dont like the combination of a nosing with verticals behind the treads. Wearers of sandals are more likely to catch the nosing with the sandal end, especially looser types. No back is more common in Australia, especially where exposed to weather.

A standard stair machine at a gym is usually 8" rise 10" run, and those steps feel steep but not excessively short, plus you're not going down them in a forwards direction, though sometimes I could do with a bit more toe room. I can see how 7" by 11" or 6.5" by 12" feels less effort, although take more space. I've been in a house with 7" by about 9" stairs and it felt slightly Teletubby-ish to walk up them, although there was some underhang for more foot room when climbing up the stairs but not so helpful down them. On the winder stair portions I definitely preferred a longer run. It made the glutes work slightly more and the quads slightly less, so the motion felt more natural with the shin more vertical on the next step, instead of knee forward on the shorter run steps. Often space constraints mandate a shorter than optimal run, and or a longer than optimal rise though.

On the subject of trip hazards: A few years ago, we moved into a rental home with a completely whacked set of (only TWO!) steps from the ground to the top of the deck. The first step from the ground had a 4X4 partially embedded in the ground holding up the risers from the dirt. the rise was about 9 inches from the ground to the first step. the next step was about 6 or 7 inches (per manufacturing guidelines), and the rise to the deck from there was at least 8 inches. VERY DISCONCERTING as you walk up the steps. I replaced the two-riser assembly with a three-riser assembly and firmly attached the riser assembly to the deck at the same RISE as the steps had, and ensured the bottom step started from the same point in space as the rises each ascended. In other words: this little two-step assembly had THREE different rises from ground to deck-- and, trust me, this was far and away more trip-worthy than any variation in tread width!

I have noticed around here the rise doesn't seem to be that important I have fallen a couple of times in the dark because the bottom step on the stairs in front of my house has a very short rise ( 4") in relation to the other steps. Two of the steps are 8 " and the top step is 7.5" . I noticed on one of the newer commercial buildings that the steps are not uniform and one has too much rise. I live in Tennessee. There were no building inspections for years.

I have found that six inch riser makes much easier for all to transverse. A one inch lip or overhang on the tread also makes an easier climb. Yes, this is good advice that only the experienced builder would know.......thanks.