Did Mallory & Irvine Summit Everest 100 years ago? Author Dr. Robert Edwards new book investigates

Published 2024-06-01
The book: amzn.to/3QWE0qg
Wow. If you want the most comprehensive study of George Mallory's 3rd and final climb up Mt. Everest, read this book!

The book "Mallory, Irvine, and Everest: The Last Step But One" by Dr. Robert Edwards examines the mystery surrounding George Mallory and Andrew Irvine's 1924 attempt to reach the summit of Mount Everest.

The book provides a fresh and original perspective on this historical event, as the author is a mathematician who has applied modern analysis techniques to the available evidence. Dr. Edwards has thoroughly researched the contemporary accounts, letters, and artifacts related to the climb and has identified inconsistencies in previous narratives.

The book's release coincides with the 100th anniversary of Mallory and Irvine's fateful expedition and offers unique insights. Mountaineering experts Jochen Hemmleb and Thom Dharma Pollard have praised its potential to shed new light on whether Mallory and Irvine were the first to conquer Everest. This unique perspective is sure to enlighten the audience.

Mallory picked a strong, young, inexperienced climbing partner, Andrew Irvine, to push to the summit.

Video interview with the author, Robert Edwards

SPOILER #1: Nobody knows if either one of them made it. And this book doesn't offer a definitive answer either.

However, this book will enthrall you if you want to learn what the most meticulous researcher has discovered.

For example, Edwards spends pages examining everything about the mysterious ice ax found high on the mountain.

SPOILER #2: The ax is almost certainly Irvine's or Malory's, but we don't know which one. The author concludes that it was placed there and didn't tumble or drop there accidentally.

What I love about this book is that Edwards lets the evidence speak. 
Although he speculates, he admits when he's speculating to let the reader reach their conclusion.

After reading this excellent book and interviewing the author, here's my best guess as to what happened:

Mallory probably reached the summit late in the afternoon, forcing him to descend at night. When investigators found his corpse in 1999, Mallory's sunglasses were in his pocket, indicating he descended at night. He ran out of oxygen, which sapped his strength and heat just when he needed to stay warm at nightfall. He had few clothes compared to modern climbers. Without oxygen, he got disoriented and wobbly. His judgment worsened. One slip was all it took to break his leg and slide down to his resting spot, where he was found decades later.  

This hypothesis is my speculation, not the book's. 

Get the book, and judge for yourself.

WARNING: This book may bore people with only a passing interest in this topic. 

VERDICT: 5 out of 5 stars!

TIMELINE
00:00 Did Mallory summit?
01:20 Absence of data
01:52 Odell's sighting
06:18 2nd Step
10:50 The Ice Axe
17:00 Mallory's risk-taking
21:00 Irvine alternatives
24:30 Mallory solo to the summit?
27:20 Irvine body
31:00 Conclusion

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All Comments (21)
  • @bobgeorge8382
    Ultimately, there's no mystery about what GM stated numerous times about potential routes to the summit. The only mystery is why people are still talking about the second step. Mallory stated repeatedly (all in print in books, letters and postcards) that he had no intention of taking on anything so technically difficult such as the second step because even if he could climb them he would be too exhausted to summit. He took either the zigzag or couloir route and was spotted by Odell at the the foot of the 3rd step or even the 'citadel'. At 12.50, there was time to summit and unfortunately the accident happened on the descent. Well done Bob Edwards on not drinking the second step kool-aid and looking at the FACTS.
  • @leeseaman6068
    A crystal-clear and highly intelligent interview that takes this analysis to a whole new level. It's been a breath of fresh air. Thank you.
  • @jamesnasium4035
    Makes more sense that they died on the way down from the summit, the way most Everest climbers day, exhausted and vulnerable due to the long period in the death zone. Michael Tracy makes a good case; one piece of evidence is a photo of Mallory's kids that his wife sent to him, which he did not have on him when his body was found, though he had two other photos of less important people on him. Mallory said he was going to leave a photo of his wife at the summit, but Tracy makes a good case that Mallory never had such a photo on his ascent--so it makes sense he would leave a photo of his kids up there instead.
  • @bluesserenader
    Quite a few comments to this video state the following: "There's a photograph of him [Oddell] pointing to the spot on the mountain where he last saw them." This assumption is incorrect. The photo was taken by Reinhold Messner in early 1978, when he visited Oddell at his home in England in preparation for his [Messner's] oxygenless attempt on Everest. The photo is reproduced on page 33 of Messner's 1978 book "Everest - Expedition zum Endpunkt", and the caption reads: Oddel mit Everest von Norden. Finger an der Stelle, an der die Eisaxt Mallorys gefunden wurde". Translation: "Oddell with Everest as seen from the north. Finger points at the spot where Mallory's ice ax has been found." So Oddell pointed at the ice ax spot, NOT at the spot of his last sighting of M.&I.!
  • @rickgoede5237
    Odell was a geologist. He would not have mistaken a rock for a person.
  • @philstevens3821
    They traversed below the second step and possibly up the coulior or the “zig zag” route. Give Michael Tracey’s channel a watch. In my opinion he is a great source of information that he backs up with credible research
  • @williambarkho
    Congratulations bob! Awesome video and interview! M&I MADE IT! Thank you also Francis!
  • In hist last view, Odell said they were on the ridge, just under the last rock step before the summit. That is a strong evidence, it would be just under the citadel and third step. And if Mallory and Irvine was there around noon, they sure went to the summit, there would be plenty of time for this and no real obstacle. The weather was good that that day and the next day, it was not a threat to them. The most probable scenario is that they summited and died during the descent, in the dark, from a fall, and due to exhaustion, cold and lack of oxygen. If they were all the time under the first step, they would had gave up in the afternoon and return safely to the tent for a hot tea. It would be a short walk of 1 or 2 hours. They died because they remained long hours above 8000 m and beyond their pack of oxygen, exposed to the freezing night, what comprimise their strenght and skills. The fall was the result of a night descent in some kind of exhaustion. Their deaths is somehow a proof that they were climbing long hours and not making an exploratory walk around first step.
  • @VTPSTTU
    Thanks for the video. I don't have an opinion on whether they reached the summit. I enjoy hearing educated speculation on the topic. Dogma is much less welcome. No matter what happened, they were remarkable men to have accomplished all that they did.
  • @jimmyzbike
    We know so much and yet so little. To my knowledge the physical evidence supports they did not use the modern route. Did they die on the way up or down? Modern statistics trend towards people dying on the way down after submitting.
  • We'll never know, but it is exciting to try and solve the mystery. This is one of 3 questions I would love to know the answer to before I die but it's impossible to know. Mallory (whether he did it or not) and Shackleton are my heroes!!! These were real men, not corporations and the wealthy on expensive, dangerous climbing tours for the wealthy. It's too easy, you can't compare it to the first explorers. Thanks for sharing.
  • @10splitter
    The tricky bit would have been finding - relocating, on the way back down, the correct route through the cracks of the yellow band, which are labyrinthine, that would have led them back to their high camp.
  • @localbod
    Anyone who has studied Mallory knows that he had no intention of following the modern route and climbing the second step.
  • @Moishe555
    when Mallory told Norton he would climb with Irving, in a very English way he responded, "well, I sayyy!"
  • @opowqte
    GM chose Irving over Odell since Irving was a wizard on the very fickle  oxygen apparatus beside being an althelete