COLD KITCHEN WALL CAUSED BY FRAMING & INSULATION ISSUES #newconstruction #insulation #framing
3,182
Published 2023-10-13
The extra wood reduces the "effective R-value" of the entire wall assembly considerably and this can be calculated by measuring the square footage of the framing (R1 per inch thick) and dividing it by the total square footage of the entire wall, which you then multiply by the R-value of the insulation, drywall, and OSB sheathing (R13 + R0.5 + R0.4 = R=13.9).
There are several better ways to build this wall assembly. One way would be to use 2x6 wall studs along the kitchen to provide more space for insulation behind the lateral framing. Another would be adding a second 2x4 wall built in front of the original exterior wall for even more insulation space. You could also add insulated board materials to exterior side of the OSB sheathing (R10 or better recommended).
Learn more about us at...
www.BuildingPerformanceGroup.com
Instagram: www.instagram.com/building.performance
Facebook: www.facebook.com/BuildingPerformanceGroup
Twitter/X: twitter.com/BldgPerformanz
#blowerdoor
#insulation
#fiberglass
#framing
#newhome
#newhomeconstruction
#energyaudit
#thermalimaging
#airtightness
#airsealing
#kentucky
#indiana
#buildingscience
All Comments (13)
-
2" rigid foam behind the 2 x 8 blocking for the cabinetry will net an R value of 12.4. Add to that the 1.88 R value of 1 1/2" thick soft wood and you're in excess of 3 1/2" fiberglass batts R value of max. R-13 or R-11 (depending on what the builder uses.) Don't make an issue of something you're "assuming". The fact that the builder used 2x blocking at all shows his/her attention to quality and detail. I also noticed LVL used for the header above the opening adjacent to and on the right side of the blocked kitchen area and the framing throughout (that I could see) was far better than the hack slop you find in many if not most new construction homes. You're making a mountain out of a mole hill.
-
Excellent video. I'm learning construction and this is very helpful You are correct. What im doing for my next house is to get them to frame with 2x6 for some extra space for insulation
-
I did learn from your video so thank you. I am confused about the “unnecessary wood”. It’s for the cabinets… I mean I know you know and said that, so why are we calling the wood unnecessary. It is necessary for cabinets to not come crashing down.
-
Ive done A TON kitchens over the years. Ive needed to rely on “ blocking “. I know how to find a stud.
-
All exterior walls should be 2x6–PERIOD. North of New York it’s not uncommon to do 2x8 exterior walls—YES it cost more but the extra room it provides for insulation is worth that expense.
-
We use 2x6 walls but furthermore, install 1/2” plywood scrap material with pocket screws after the wall is insulated.
-
With so much uncertainty with energy cost, I would never buy or build a home with fiberglass for insulation
-
“ Never “ I meant.
-
Must be in the south.
-
😅😅in Europa ist osb innen. Die wand wird wie alle voll gedämmt luftdicht abgeklebt. Innen ist die instalationsebene. 6-8 cm. Ebenfalls gedämmt .da laufen wasser.strom. abwasser.gas und alles andere drin her.😅😅😅
-
Huge sets of cabinets all over the place that have been hanging problem-free for DECADES with no blocking added to the framing. Times have changed. Nowadays these damn so-called carpenters put their utility knife down to go find their pencil sharpener. Pathetic.
-
Wood is a natural insulator. You don't have to worry about the wood, just get insulation around it. If it wasn't a good insulator, then log cabins wouldn't retain heat.
