Trapping Woodchucks or Groundhogs with a Conibear Trap

Published 2022-06-11
Part of Property Management involves the removal of unwanted guests. In this situation I have a young Woodchuck that needs to be removed and eliminated. I understand that this can be controversial, however most that are opposed to these techniques do not own property or have experienced the damage that a Woodchuck or Groundhog can produce. I hope this video is helpful.

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All Comments (21)
  • @MobtownGeorge
    I appreciate the concise video on how to use the trap, which is why I found your video. I know a lot of folks are not interested in seeing an animal meet its demise, but I also understand that unfortunately it’s what needs to be done sometimes. We’re having issues with a couple of groundhogs digging near the foundation of our main barn which has to stop. Thanks for the great video.
  • @denniskazich7559
    You're doing everything right. Get them before they destroy too much stuff. Very good explanation of trap.
  • @jjjohn5914
    Good job getting that Varmint. There's a woodchuck population explosion by me. Of the 27 years I lived here, I only started seeing woodchucks the last 3 years and for everyone I trap two take its place. They have no real natural predators anymore where I live . The population just keeps growing and growing and growing. It's like the deer population... Woodchucks dig under the house foundation and garage foundations causing me lots of problems. Not to mention eating all my crops.
  • Thanks for the video. I have been using grip traps to remove problem rodents for a few years. I didn't know about body grip traps for the first 50 years of my life. I'm 62 now and boy am I thankful for the knowledge you shared. More people should know about this alternative. I don't have any offer problems any more. I think I cleaned out the whole neighborhood.
  • I have the next size up trap (220). But this is the way I do it as well. All our fuzzy critters are cute until they start ruining things. Property management is a reality
  • We used live traps in the past. Apple slices slathered with peanut butter and a few chunks of honey dew melon. We put a spot of orange spray paint on the caged 'ground chuck' critter... ...released them (more than one) more than 7 miles away -- within a month they would return. Reset, paint and relocate... return time after time. Same with raccoons (can of cat food for bait). No more 'mister nice guy'. Thanks for the upload. 🦫🕳😵 🥲
  • @yomomma107
    Back in the day we used to use flex pipe under the tractor exhaust and put it down the hole for about 20 minutes.... Never saw any woodchucks ever again
  • @fourcubed47
    Here in New York, it's illegal to live trap animals such as in a havahart trap and relocate them unless you're licensed to do so. I also prefer the larger 220 conibear for woodchucks. Conibears are such an instant kill, I really have no problem using them for nuisance animals.
  • @Savage3OO6
    If you are having problem with just catching paws and snouts, turn the conibear over, so the triggers are farther away from the hole. That will require the hog to be further into the trap before it fires. Of course, this concept works for hogs coming out of the hole, but if the hog is coming into the hole, then the way you are setting is is ideal. For the record, this depends on what animal you are trapping. For beaver and raccoon, I always prefer the trap to fire before they entre the trap, but for hogs and muskrat, I want them in the trap when it fires.
  • @Tommyr
    Nice job! I've been trapping them for 7 years now and so far have caught 43 of them. You also end up catching possums and skunk as well because they will also use woodchuck dens.
  • The 160 conibear worked perfect. They were refusing the box trap
  • @tommyt8998
    Does it matter which side of a conibear the animal enters, or is it equally effective from both sides?
  • I have a live trap to relocate but there is one guy I might have to put down. It has destroyed my crops. Thanks for the video.