18th century Menswear: Hand Sewing Breeches
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Published 2020-12-06
Important Tips:
1. Make a mock-up. But don't worry about fitting it "perfectly". Odds are your fabric will have different stretch. So leave some extra seam allowance on the inseams for safety!
2. Don't add seam allowance to your pattern. Draw the shape on the fabric and add it on there. You need your stitching lines.
3. BASTE EVERYTHING. Don't expect pins to hold things smoothly or safely. They are temporary. Basting will keep things secure and flat for as long as you need. You'll thank yourself when you don't accidentally stab your hand or have an important pin fall out half way through the project.
4. Reinforce. Don't expect your one layer of fabric to do all the work. Nor should you just line the entire thing to strengthen. Interfacings, linings, and extra pieces should be applied with thought so as to be successful and reduce bulk. We aren't machine bag-lining this thing for a reason.
5. Stitching should show! We want to see your work! And it serves to help reinforce your garments weak points.
6. Leave enough space in your clothing that you can move. This is especially apparent in breeches and trousers. You need to be able to sit and squat down.
7. First project at this level? Use wool. It is forgiving and has enough natural stretch and give that you won't have to obsess. It's also fairly strong (so long as you leave enough allowance for fraying). Can't do wool due to allergies? Try a cotton twill or denim (yes, denim. Des Nîmes- From Nîmes). I chose a woven silk, rather than a taffeta, to give myself some ease.
8. Really scared? Make a pair of underbreeches first! They're out of a plain linen and have fewer complicated elements, but you can essentially make a useable mock up this way! They're great for warmth, wool allergies, or keeping your outer breeches clean.
Burnley & Trowbridge workshops: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/pages/historic-fashion-wo…
(they're also where all of the fabric, thread, button moulds, and buckles came from for this project)
Socials
Instagram: www.instagram.com/silk_and_buckram/
Tiktok: www.tiktok.com/@cloche_call
🖼 Fashion Plate: www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/BI-1959-529-46
🖼 Sailor: www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_2010-708…
🖼 Suit: collections.lacma.org/node/214563
🖼 Kneeband: www.meg-andrews.com/item-details/Knitted-Breeches/…
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com/
All Comments (21)
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It is a universally accepted truth that secret pockets are for snacks
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I feel like I've learned so much about dresses and 'womens' wear but almost nothing about 'mens'. So thank you for teaching about 'mens' wear. We need more people like you.
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gay awakening 2 just happened thanks queen
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Ooh. I must admit, seeing a woman in such beautiful breeches is setting my little gay heart aflutter! I need more androgynous history bounding in my life.
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Sees Nicole looking ultra-cool in britches - "I should make britches" Sees Nicole painstakingly craft them in so much detail - "Maybe in a year or two when I upgrade my skills" Sees Nicole continue to painstakingly craft them - "Wait, I don't wear knee-length pants anyway. No britches for me!" You look so cool, Nicole!
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Can we take a moment to appreciate the absolute Gentleman Jack -esque glamour of the thumbnail!! I swoon!
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I deeply appreciate the focus on menswear because I find it often neglected on historical YouTube, and I just adore this in-depth video. I beg that you make more because one everyone looks great in any sort of “gendered” wear but also it’s helpful to have a better understanding of tailoring since a lot of pattern neglect smaller men like me.
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The comments on this video: - STOP IM ALREADY GAY - Magical scissors - Stunning stitch-work
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"I can only assume snacks" Nicole, I love you! 😂💝
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That shot at the end of you lounging in your breeches! I am getting very strong Georgette Heyer Regency vibes. You know the novels: "Young heiress rebels against dreadful relatives, cuts off her hair and dresses as a boy to evade pursuit, shenanigans with a handsome young Baronet ensue" It's a strong look, is what I'm saying.
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I learned SOOO much! Also you look so sexy and powerful in this outfit - it really suits you! I really hope you go into making courtsuits as well - I want to learn EVERYTHING from you!
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hotdamn, NIcole, not even a second in and you already there serving looks fans herself
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I was actually shocked to see how much extra room you needed to leave in the garment for movement. We definitely got way too spoiled by stretchy fabrics. Also, I love the tips in your description bar. I hope more people find you soon, because the content is top notch quality!
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The shots of you modeling those breeches could absolutely be a thirst trap tiktok.... Also, very stoked to see some "mens" garments!
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So many literary references to tailoring, wearing, and extracting oneself from breeches now make sense.
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These breeches with your Tailored Jacket would make an interesting combo. Plus I had a small heartstop when I saw you take a scissors to make the buttonholes. Those things are scary when you don't notice the space that prevents them from cutting all the way through. :}
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i'm a fencer and we have to wear breeches, so it's super interesting to see their lineage. My university club used to make lots of jokes about wearing ours out for socials but we never did get round to it... 😂
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the video and people in comments: "menswear" me: vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians vintage lesbians
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The sound that those scissors make is just perfection
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I just love this video! Once upon a time back in the early 80’s, I loved the breeches look so much, I talked a couple of friends into whacking off the bottoms of our wide-leg jeans and made little knee bands. We called them “knickers” and not breeches, but I do believe that was my first-ever attempt to achieve a somewhat historical silhouette. Now watching this video I remember the joy it brought my little revolutionary soul to rebel against early 80’s in favor of 18th century!
