How does our Passive House perform in a heat wave?

Published 2024-02-15
Architect Ben Caine shares his experience of living in a passive house in Western Australia's extreme summer temperatures. Learn the systems, tips and tricks to staying cool and comfortable with minimal energy use.

Learn more: www.leanhaus.com.au/blog

Passive House energy efficient home design.
Full timber framed construction with uprated insulation.
Air tight construction with Heat Recovery Ventilation

#sustainabledesign
#passivehouse
#architecture

All Comments (21)
  • @FrankReif
    Hi, sorry to be that guy, but the ventilated void behind a facade removes negligible heat - this is a common misunderstanding in the industry. It is great at drying the cavity and providing a drainage plane. The colour does affect the local microclimate - walking in front of a dark facade will feel significantly hotter during the day due to infrared heat transfer - and a city full of dark roofs will create more of an urban heat island and cause more cumulative heat damage to PV systems. I like the internal recirculation on a single AC unit. Americans frequently use central return recirculation units, with the fan coil in the duct system instead, which are better with medium load buildings and climate zones needing more dehumidification.
  • @alawoye
    One thing I would like to suggest, Considering that you have invested in a in ground pool, depending upon the volume size and depth of it, you could have used it for the cooling of your interior space If you had made a treatment ( like a live or faux plant overhang/pergola ) for shading especially on the high solar times of day, that water will stay cool throughout the day and easily below 20-22c even on the hottest days, if properly shaded, maybe using a light coloured pool cover during the day when pool not used and removing the cover at night ( to allow night evaporative cooling). If doing this you could use the pools thermal energy to cool your interior space with a W2A ( water-to-air ) heat pump instead of the A2A heat pump you have, water is a much more superior conductor of energy use, while using far less energy than air fans and pumps I’ve done this before in Africa and it works fantastically, easily shaving 40-60% off my cooling energy bill ( which is on PV), so a secondary unit (apartment) can keep their unit cool without affecting energy consumption Something to consider or test using a thermostat probe in a shaded pool on very hot days to track water/ambient air temperature variance
  • @TB-Personal
    Love the videos mate. Think you're onto a winning market in Perth over the next 10 years.
  • @shanereid282
    That's great to see more Passive Haus content in Australia but man the comment about limiting what your Tennant's do was a little off.
  • @andrewgoy6316
    great video mate, you've done it so well with a selffy stick (im assuming), looks pro....most importantly its great to illustrate to people that PH isn't just for Europe , love it..also what a great job your guys did with the fascia/cappings, its so hard to get that looking flat even after some hot days
  • @Andrewc87563
    Great video and thank you for sharing but while it is true that the exterior of the building and air tightness is important, and glass shading is crucial, the insulated thermal mass of your slab is really what is helping you to ride out the day heat and into the generally cooler night cycle with lower energy use - lag time + coupled with clever sensible design - which you have shown. There is good material available on performance benefits of light coloured cladding (such as Coolmax roofing) but you are right that overall design is probably more important - but bad structual design coupled with dark colours will make things worse. The thing with your dark walls is although it does suck in more heat it seams that material plus the backing arrangement provides little thermal mass for that heat to sink and radiate from for hours - which is why brick walls isn't the best exterior cladding for many climates. The vent system behind the tin walls may provide some venting but most of the heat heading internally would be radiant heat which is in the infrared spectrum and doesn't vent via convection - I assume you know this which is why I don't see any of those whirly-birds on your roof - good choice. But it makes me wonder if you have a reflective barrier in your walls (vapour permeable) which is reflecting the radiant heat out (25mm air gap required). The other negative for dark colours is that it heats up the surrounding neighborhood (urban heat island effect). Efficiency Matrix just did a video test on special paints you can watch here: https://youtu.be/V8dg1ePdJ68?si=6kUbSGeQDBP0CyJw I also recommend their blockwork video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrWdTVE1M_4 I have just replaced my concrete tile roof with Mars terracotta from Monier which has a lower SOI compared to the prior roof. With terracotta having more thermal mass SOI is important. I also have R6+ glasswool insulation and non-reflective vapour-permeable membrane sarking (I am in Melbourne) which is essential when you insulate the roof cavity to a high standard to manage condensation on the back of a tile. It took a long time to explain to a well known roofing brand in Melbourne why you should not being using non-permeable silver sarking when you insulate thoroughly in a cool climate. The bush fire smoke prevention you described is down to the filters and the capacity of the filter to screen out particles of sufficient size. With smoke being between 0.5 and 2.5 microns in size I would be curious to know what your particulate filter is capable of. In addition the ability to keep your home positively pressured with clean air really helps keep smoke out (noting your house is passive tight). This principle is behind clean rooms used by industry. In regards to the Daikin heat exchanger cooling performance usually stops with an ambient external air temperature around 44-46C degrees at this point you are reliant upon your slab to keep the home cool (this is when ceiling fans become important for keeping the people feeling cooler than ambient - breeze). Your additional air transfer fans are really good. But they also have a role to play in managing the stack effect in two story dwellings with open stairwells. Have you used these this way in your projects in addition to a HRV? I really enjoy your videos and its really encouraging to see quality architectural design that doesn't cost the earth being promoted. I hope you get more subscribers and I appreciate being able to see some of your building designs and floor plans on your website and videos. It would be amazing see the project home builders promoting and building quality homes and not just the biggest thing with lowest efficiency they can ram on the block to unaware home buyers.
  • @aggiewoodie
    25C AC set point! That’s 77F. I’m in TX, I set mine at 22.2C/72F during the day and 20.6C/69F at night.
  • @justcallmefrank
    What system do you use for air transfer? We're finding similarly that the north-west corner of our house is a bit of a warm zone also and the HRV isn't capable of mixing enough cool air for the heat gain. FWIW we went dark Colorbond, although with a dark roof too because it was visible. With the ventilated cavities, it's performing great. Ironically the house is coolest around midday when the windows get a break from the east facing sun (we have shading yet to be installed).
  • @alfredodino825
    Would be useful to discuss Humidity in relation to heat. Humidity impacts comfort as much if not more than heat.
  • @todd5963
    I have 2 questions, 1. Do you hace a recirc kitchen hood or make up air for hood. If make up air do u have motorized damper or fan for make up air? 2. If building when it is hot, I'm worried about portable air conditioning because its a tight house and we r supposed to vent the unit outside so not sure where the intake air will cone from. Won't be able to get our house AC unit for a bit. Thx
  • @soccerhomework
    What is the ceiling panels with the grid of holes? Is this for sound absorption? Make and model is appreciated.
  • @wazza33racer
    one good thing about solar panels......they perform well on hot sunny days when running an air con is useful. I commend the use of small practical,sensible windows.....most homes have stupidly large windows for the Australian climate. Dark colorbond colours also fade sooner........any roofer will tell you that. Its stupid.
  • @jacobburgin826
    What was the budget for a house off this size? Would love to see a floor plan. Awesome job
  • @rawenpasha
    I was interested until he said the some days it gets over the 40s. Here in Erbil, Iraq, 43 is our summer average while it gets to 48 in some days.
  • @buddyrevell511
    25 degrees C inside? Crikey mate that's way too warm! I'm a 16 degree guy, though anything below 20 would be ok.
  • @RayHarmes
    What r- value is your house insulated to?