Are You Changing Oil Too Often? You'll Be Surprised By These Lab Results! BMW Oil Analysis PART 1

Check out my other Oil Analysis videos: Part 1 - BMW 5k, 7.5k, 10k comparison: www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1ZJJyfph4M Part 2 - BMW Two Year Oil comparison: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hJU112oUg8 Part 3 - 300k mile Toyota Yaris Oil Analysis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caBVbGYHB4k Part 4 - 208k mile Jeep Grand Cherokee Oil Analysis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HWGCX9sWpw

In my former life I was a lubrication engineer (tribologist).   Particles in nature are usually of negative electronic charge and tend to 'clump' together (agglomerate) into larger and larger sized particles ... based on time. Most engines made earlier than about 2010 are built upon the 20 µM (micrometers) specification - defining the MOST DAMAGING PARTICLE SIZE in an internal combustion engine; many of the newer designed engines have a lesser/smaller sized particles-in-oil specification.   Modern lubricating oils have added detergent, a chemical compound that alters the electronic surface characteristics of the particles. Such Detergents become 'used up' based on the time the oil is in service/operation. Secondly, the more modern engines have 'weaker' (less springy) piston rings (done to artificially improve gas milage). This allows MORE blow-by of the piston rings (and oil) to become 'settled' and deposited as 'carbon' behind and on the wrong side the piston rings and IN the ring grooves ('lands') of the piston. This build up of carbon can promote ring sticking (or 'stuck rings') leading to adverse cylinder wall wear, The remedy is: 1. if the vehicle is driven predominately at normal steady state, highway speeds, with the cruise contol engaged, with little stop & go intervals in between .... consider to change oil and 'quality' oil filter AT (or before) the manufacturers recommended change-out recommendations 2. If predominantly in stop and go conditions, and you're always accelerating and decelerating (aggressively) .... consider to change the oil at **HALF** the recommended interval to help ensure that your piston rings dont become stuck due to carbon build up in the piston ring grooves. Constant oil changeout - ON TIME , .... (or at half time intervals for 'stop and go') - ...... is VASTLY CHEAPER than an engine rebuild or 'new' vehicle.   For myself I typically get 200 - 300k+ miles out of a well made engine. (FWIW - I never buy a new design 'engined' vehicle, until it proves itself to be itself in *long term* driving conditions to be long-term-reliable). Lastly, avoid 'beating' the engine with rapid acceleration/deceleration, 'especially' including those times when the engine is BELOW normal operating TEMPERATURES. Hope this helps. ;-)

I change the oil not for the car but for my ' mental health ' win win.😅.

You will NEVER hurt an engine by putting fresh oil and filter . NEVER . I do every 5000 kms . Cheap and fun .

In order to decide on oil change intervals, you have to consider your driving conditions. The deterioration of the oil is dependent on how many cold starts you perform, and on whether the engine is run up to operating temp each time you run it. If you tend to run short errands with a delay between trips, your oil will deteriorate more quickly. During warm-up, acid and water vapor is created during this period. If you get the engine all the way up to temp, most of the water vapor evaporates and blows out the tailpipe. The acid that occurs during the warm-up process just collects in the oil, contaminating it. Also a consideration is whether you do much driving in excessively dusty conditions. To simplify all this, if you drive 200 miles on the highway, your engine will get more wear during the first 2 minutes of warm-up than it will during the 200 miles of driving. All of these factors are why it is difficult to have a single hard and fast rule about intervals. Also, if you are using synthetic oil, it is more resistant to deterioration. Also, if your engine is turbocharged, this is very hard on the oil, much like the effects of large amounts of steroids on a human body. If you talk to a mechanic, they will invariably tell you that turbocharged engines nearly always have a shorter life than non-turbo versions of the same engine. A engine -oil analysis is a really good way to measure the best interval for oil changes for your own type of driving, but it doesn't tell you much about your neighbor who has a different pattern of use. BILL

My personal experience with oil changes is to take whatever the manufacturer says and divide that by 2 seems to do the trick.

I always do my oil changes at 5-7k miles and I’m glad to see I was right in my suspicions.

Well, i am the sucker that owns a n52 and changed religiously at 3k mi intervals along with the Mann filter. The thing sits at 178k mi and still pulls like a freight train. Enjoyed your vid thoroughly.

Good for you for keeping that E46 in such good shape. My first brand new car was a 2000 328Ci that I opted for European delivery on. I drove it for 13 years before buying an X3. That E46 was a GREAT car and probably the last the great BMWs.

I recently had an oil analysis performed by LN Engineering and while the ppm of all elements examined were in the good range, they encouraged doing a “dual” sample test in the future (sending a bottle of the brand new, unused oil before it went in along with one when it came out 5,000 miles later) in order to know the exact levels of all the original additives, etc. before and after. They said this gives an more accurate picture of what the engine is doing.

Thanks for adding the values in km’s and € as well :)

After all my research, I have settled on 10,000km interval with full synthetic. I have also adjusted the intervals to match multiple of 10s on odometer, easy to remember. My next change is at 240,000km 😊

Based on just the data you showed, you need to run two oil intervals of 7,500 miles and compare them. On both oil changes send the filter with them and have them do a particle load test. One more thing. Have you thought about doing these tests with Shell Ultra Helix 5w-30? The filter youre are using is phenomenal, and a very good choice for BMW.

Great video.....The lab tests really add a good perspective and credibility. Many videos out there just keep talking stuff about the topic without actual measurements, tests or analysis of any kind to back it up. Very few of them show numbers like you did. Proper way to do it, keep it up 👍🏽

Really cool that you put also metric references to the video... I am from Germany and have troubles comparing the Numbe4s during watching a video...

I have 17 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6 L V6. Because I live in an area that is over 100° (sometimes towing a small RV) in the summer and below 0° in the winter. I stick to 5000 to 6000 mile oil change intervals. Thanks for the video!

Great video.. thanks for posting your results. I usually do oil changes every 5,000 miles (8,000 km).

I had a 1981 BMW 320I and changed the oil at 21000 miles. I used AMSOIL and it came back good at 21000 when I had it analized. I sold the car with 187000 miles and it still looked like new inside when I checked the valve adjustment.

My bmw 545i has always had oil changes every 5/6000 miles and also gets redlined a few times a week. I’ve often found regular oil changes at this interval to prolong any vehicle I’ve owned

Routine sampling is wonderful. Added value, peace of mind, and a headsup. Actually it pretty cheap insurance. Same my 2016 5.0 at 75k on the truck, 8500 miles on mobile 1 synthetic, and a Motorcraft filter. Results were freaking beautiful, especially since I have lab experience. Thanks for the video!