How To Run Electrical Wires Through Studs

On behalf of EZ Electrical System Solutions, thank you for featuring our EZ GUARD, Scott! We wanted to make sure everyone knows that the EZ GUARD is UL listed in the U.S. (UL 2239) & Canada (CSA-C22.2 No. 18.4-15). One of the many tests the EZ GUARD was required to pass for UL certification was stopping a screw from penetrating a wire inside a wood stud. Even when a screw bites through the wood, 1/16" thick zinc-plated steel does its job. You can take UL's word for it! The EZ GUARD also meets & exceeds NFPA 70 National Electrical Code 300.4 (Protection Against Physical Damage). Thank you all for your warm response!

I like that the stuff most DIY homeowners don't think of, like drywall screw length, has been identified and explained here. Thanks so much!

True story- working as a new construction plumber we would always install nail plates whenever our pipes were placed through studs, per code. More times than I can count I would swing by the job site for whatever reason and the drywallers would be there doing their thing. Glancing down into a trash can I would see a pile of aforementioned nail plates. Apparently (at least in my area) most drywallers remove the nail plates before installing the sheetrock. I would always take pictures just in case an issue arises later on, for legal evidence.

Never seen the Ez guard product. thanks.

Wow! I'm a retired electrician and never seen those EZ Guards. A brilliant idea! Why didn't I think of that and make a million bucks?

I could also see the inserts being the better option when there's drywall on both sides and you're doing remodeling. You may only open the drywall on one side and so won't have access to the other side to be able to install a nail plate on both sides.

I prefer drilling 5/8 in. holes for single runs of #12 and #14 NM cable - 2 or 3 wire. I have seen many times in torn out old work where larger than necessary holes were bored and the mice have used the cables like highways moving through the bored holes to get from stud cavity to cavity. When they want to make a hole a little larger they chew around it - and then chew the insulation off the cable down to bare copper. Its not that they want to eat the PVC insulation from the cable - they are just trying to make the hole a little larger. They love 1 in. holes, but I've never noticed that they move around stud cavities or from floor to floor when the bored holes are kept reasonably small.

Most excellent info. No stupid logos, no annoying music, and right into the good info. PS: I like those Irwin tri-wing bits too.

I just stumbled on to your page. WOW!!, what practical, down to earth and straight forward situations you explain in such simple terms, but with supporting "code" criteria, your years of experience, and great camera angles and sketches. Your calm assuring voice and video makes me feel confident to tackle anything!! Also love tool and gear recommendations! You're tops and can count on me as a new fan. Thanks so much, from a 77 yr old, heavy construction project mgr engineer and avid DIY'r in Salt Lake area upgrading a 1985 5,000 sf 5 split level rambler/ranch style home we bought 8 yrs ago. Love the home, just lots of work = we're basically replacing everything except sheet rock. I have full cabinet shop,, am retired and think I can do it all!! :), but I do hire pro's for the big stuff (roof, add 2 AC units, change out poly for pex, hard wood floors, carpet, granite counter tops, large picture windows and 4' sink!. I do moldings, all demo/prep, we have tiled floors, added ½ bath and built 14 x 20 library for wife, 13x20 concrete patio with serpentine stairway with12 steps, etc.) Wish I'd found you earlier. But still lots to do, but now I have you as my mentor! Thanks.

"I'm going by my experience, I'm not a licensed electrician". I like that a lot! I am a home owner and I have taught myself basic plumbing, electrical and framing. Keep it to code, do it safe.

Thank you for the helpful video. This is an issue for network cabling as well. We already use firestops for going through walls and floors. But inside walls it's Colorado straps. Glad to learn about some new tech.

Elderly, retired Canadian here. I'm no longer doing a lot of home renovating, but your advice is still timely {& correct, even in my country}. I hadn't seen the circular steel/plastic hole liners. Great idea - the nailer plates, although convenient after-the-fact {as JV below points out} they do add a thickness bump which may interfere with achieving a flat drywall surface. Tradeoffs...

Got my bag from Menard's all the way down in Texas. Thanks for the heads up and any future electrician who works on this home after I'm gone will thank you as well.

In Norway we run EVERY hidden cable or wire inside a plastic flexible tube which securely connects to a wall box.. a simple and secure as it gets and you can always replace or add more wires if needed

Was glad to see your review on horizontal wiring protection methods. I recently used the EZ guards from Menards you reviewed on my garage project and they worked great. By using the horizontal wiring thru 2x6 studs on 12 foot side walls I saved a significant amount of 12-2 wire to place electrical receptacles around wall perimeter. Thanks for the review!

Not sure about the regulations but here in Finland the electricians that i've seen working seem to strive for having only vertical electrical lines going inside a wall, never horizontal and rarely going through studs. Typically going up toward the ceiling from eg. a wall outlet. I find this predictability practical.

The inserts don’t “bump out “the drywall either , good for the guys who have to create a smooth, even finish for whatever happens after the electrician is gone.. plates, hangers, all of that has to be compensated for by someone eventually! Great idea with inserts

Those easy guards are cool! Peace of mind you won't get your house burned down, and no worries when screwing into walls, nice!

As usual, nice presentation of issues with running wire in walls! Thx

DIY those inserts are great! I always aim for The middle of any stud. Only floor & ceiling joists do I change that up.