Furnaces for cold climates… high efficiency?!🔥🤔

I bought a 96 Gas furnace from Amana last October. It’s worked very well and has a 10 year warranty on parts and labor. Finally a good warranty

Good information

Setting the temperature above 69 in Wisconsin will melt your friends when they come over.

Thank you for this informative session. What would you recommend for a New build in very cold places like Saskatchewan Canada? Standard or HE? Natural Gas is cheaper than Propane here as well.

Liked your video. I’m in the Texas Hill Country and I Wish I had this information in 2018 I would have gone with a Single Stage. Instead I got the 2 Stage. Now in the Summer Time my Lennox High Seer Efficiency Electric Furnace kicks ass. Last few years we have been averaging 100 F + anywhere from 50 days up to over 100 days a year and my furnace never skipped a beat. Very quiet and Low Bills. Now since 2018 our Winters have been Colder than usual and that’s when my furnace starts to struggle. Soon as it hits 32 or Lower it gets noisy from the cycles and no warm air. The air is warmer than outside but not enough warmth like a Single Stage. I been looking for a video or something that I can read to show me the best way to operate a 2 stage furnace during the winter. Do I need to change to a higher air flow filter (I have a Merv 11) or remove the Real Feal Setting and just run Normal or what to help me Squeeze out some more warm temperature during the winter.

I'm in Minnesota in a home that was fully renovated in 2009. Currently we run a 92% Goodman single stage original from the renovation. I'm all in on the dual fuel option but the question I have is what kind of electrical draw (starting and running) the system would be looking at if I were to run a solar set up that was dedicated to just the HVAC?

Here's a complicated question. I've been slowly upgrading my home envelope, the latest being going from an R20 to R50 roof, better attic venting, and solar blocking window treatments. Those three retrofits alone cut my heating and A/C in half. So now my medium efficiency 45,000/60,000 dual stage furnace is only on for 6 hours during the coldest days (50 heat degree day), which works out to 9,000-12,000 BTU/hr in heat loss. Not quite PassivHaus, but close enough to EnerPHit. Do small natural gas furnaces exist , or am I a candidate to eventually switching to a cold climate heat pump? (not that I mind, 80% of my gas bill is just admin fees and right-of-way charges)

We own a rental in West Yellowstone, which annually will have days where it's the lowest recorded temperature in the lower US. Last year there was 5' of snow in the yard and winter lows hit -20, or less, a few times. As a rental, there's a 26yr old Heil 80% that is still working fine and we have access to the property to change filters, etc, but still, it's worked hard over those years. I hear the line of thinking that an 80% is lower in cost and possibly a little more bombproof, but with heating bills in the $600/mo range last winter along with 'winter' typically lasting from October - April, the high efficiency option is appealing given pay-back time. Adding the new PVC isn't an issue with the location of the furnace. Thoughts?

First time buying a furnace for my house . Is a 66,000 BTU efficient good for a house 1290 square ft house? Older house with older doors and older windows. Built in 1914-1917. Ranch style with a basement.

My home is a 2627 sq ft ranch with high ceilings (9’+) built in 2002 for Chicago winters. I have a 2627 sq ft English style basement (70% below grade 8’ 10” walls) that maintains a 65-68F temperature year-round. The home is heated by a 22 year old single stage Bryant 132,000/107,000 BTU 80% gas furnace and cooled by 4 ton A/C. The temperature setting for heating: 71 day/65 night, cooling: 76 day/78 night. The thermostat measures an average runtime of 5.2 hours per day {Dec, Jan, Feb} and 3.2 hours per day in July. Do these runtimes indicate that my system is over-sized? The basement is unfinished open space that is used daily with: work shop, crafting, billiards, table tennis, etc. I would like to increase the basement daytime temperature to 70 degrees year round. There are two wall registers (with louvers) installed at the far ends of the main supply trunk (east and west). There are no returns in the basement. There are no supply registers on the north or south end of the basement. There are 7 windows on the east wall and one window each in the south east and north east corners. Can I assume that any conditioning to the basement would lose some BTU’s to the outside and some to the upper level of the house? If so, is duct sealing in a semi-conditioned space pointless? Would conditioning the basement space by five degrees reduce the heating/cooling requirements of the upper level? Should I consider zoning the basement off of the existing HVAC or would it be better to install a separate HVAC for the basement? I plan to live in this house for 5-10 years, not enough time to have a high efficiency HVAC to pay for itself. I want to be prepared for a replacement if it becomes necessary.

Everybody loves a Trane in my area. I can care less for them. All you’re doing is paying for the name. American Standard is manufactured by Trane. Same product basically with half the cost in some ways. But I would definitely go with a Daikin if I could. They’re not widely offered in my area though.

I have an AC Pro that is a high efficiency furnace. Is it normal to take 6 hours to go from 45℉ to 70℉? Also, I can not get any higher the 68-70℉?