How To Flash A Window Sill, Jamb, And Header And Properly Install A Window!

Published 2021-09-23
How To Flash A Window Sill, Jamb, And Header And Properly Install A Window!
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All Comments (21)
  • @sonomafred
    If window was installed on high-exposure gable-end wall, then drip cap absolutely necessary; however, with over two feet of eave directly above, it's hard to fathom how any water could reach that area, and I've seen drip caps actually make matters worse by providing a "break" in the stucco for water to enter due to thermal expansion in the sun. So, having flashed windows for close to fifty years, I think their use is a judgement call based on the location of the opening.
  • @bradybailey7110
    Nicely done, I’m a professional window installer. It’s refreshing to see windows installed properly. Drip cap is a necessity!! Love it
  • @garylangley4502
    Thanks!! I have one window to replace which my son and I will do this Saturday, if the good Lord is willing, and the creek doesn't rise.
  • @teraxiel
    My only critique would be that the small pieces of sill flashing that got put in the corners should have gone on first so the the sill properly shingled over them, and to add a little bit of liquid sealant in the corner where the cut was made. This location in windows is notorious for leaking.
  • @edwardscott7938
    I do commercial exterior finishing up here in the northwest. On almost every project, we also cut the WRB back about 2 inched from the R.O. but when we put the membrane on the R.O., we wrap the whole thing before the window goes in, and post wrap. We also end dam all of our head flashings, especially since we always build out a rain screen gap, and without the end dams, water would just run behind the cladding
  • @desmo8755
    Watched alot of techniques. A couple of things that seem like good practice not shown here are to use spacers to create a small gap between the window bottom and sill pan, and even to draft the house framing outward if possible (piece of beveled clapboard). And I learned the hard way that the drip cap or head flashing needs to be “dammed” on each side so it doesn’t divert water down the side of the window and under the trim or siding (and it’ll eventually get behind the tape at the flange and directly onto the OSB because now you have no tyvek or tape there, under the flange, in your integrated system).
  • @houseonahillok
    I just watched 10 or so window installation videos and this is the most complete one. Thanks for the help.
  • @DPAFF1
    Greate job, I found and see that the younger so call window installer don't believe in seal tape or drip caps, they want to do a quick job and move on! I'm glad you show and do it the right way.
  • @zimmz123
    Did you just use DAP acrylic paintable caulking on the outside of your building as a water barrier instead of a Silicon caulk or one properly rated for weather use?
  • Mannnnnnnnn thank you 🙏🏾 this was GREAT and easy to understand
  • @timbarclay1787
    Love the video. Not enough construction teachers in the world. Love the comedic element where you call the DAP ALEX sealant. 😂
  • Thank you for demonstrating this correctly! I can’t believe how many people posing as professionals making videos of incorrect window flashing! Or no flashing at all. I’m trying to send a demo video to a friend and I couldn’t find one until yours. I would only echo one commenter that the flashing in the lower corners might go first and all the way back. But thank you! We’ll done.