Comparing Modern to Victorian Corsets (and why not all corsets are ok)

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Published 2021-03-20
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Noelle (Costuming Drama)'s channel:    / @costuming_drama  

For loads more analysis and review of modern corsets, Lucy's Corsetry is an excellent channel to check out: youtube.com/user/bishonenrancher
Lucy's website is also a fabulous resource for corsetry knowledge, and includes a comprehensive database of current corset sellers: lucycorsetry.com/

A slightly less comprehensive list of corsetmakers I've put together myself: bernadettebanner.co.uk/corsetmakers-list


FOOTNOTES:
[1] Image © Vanyanis, used with permission.
[2] Home Notes. "The KHIVA Corselet". Home Notes, vol. IV, 10 November, 1894, p. 116. Google Books, books.google.com/books?id=Bzq2AAAAMAAJ&pg=PA116&lp….
[3] The Sioux County journal. [volume] (Harrison, Nebraska), 13 Feb. 1896. Chronicling America: Historic American Newspapers. Lib. of Congress. chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/2018270201/1896-02…
[4] "Ferris Athletic Waist." General Federation Bulletin, vol. V, no. 9, 1908. Nineteenth Century Collections Online, link.gale.com/apps/doc/VCEHOF269928254/NCCO?u=nypl&sid=NCCO&xid=3c519e8c. Accessed 2 Jan. 2021.
[5] "Maud of Wales with her regalia as queen of Norway" January, 1901. Wikimedia Commons. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maud_of_Wales#/media/File:Ma…
[6] "Corset" [Stays]. Mid 18th c. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/90458
[7] Portrait of a woman, ca.1860s. Wikimedia Commons commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Portrait_of_Portra…
[8] This point is often made by dress historian and 19th century specialist Luca Costigliolo.
[9] Fig. 165 — Corset droit 1904. Wikimedia Commons commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Corset_droit1904.g…
[10] Hecklinger, Charles. "The Keystone Guide to Jacket and Dress Cutting". The Herald of Fashion co., New York. 1895. [archive.org/details/keystonejacketdr00heck/page/82](archive.org/details/keystonejacketdr00heck/page/82)

Footage of Symington corsets © Leicestershire Collections, used with permission.

0:00 Introduction & Some Necessary Disclaimers
2:22 Construction Differences: Modern vs Victorian
5:08 A Corset for Every Size & Purpose
6:59 In Defence of Shapely Bellies
8:01 ALL SHOES are Inherently Painful. (Assumption, Generalization, Misconception)
11:09 The Roles of Fit and Size in Comfort
13:27 My Experience Wearing the Mass-Manufacture Corset
15:50 Corsetting the Plus Sized Body (ft. Costuming Drama)
20:04 Questioning Why We Believe What We Believe
23:20 Adventuring with Audible

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All Comments (21)
  • @DanielleStJohn
    Corset padding: "If you don't have homemade curves, store-bought is fine."
  • @Baalaaxa
    In ancient times clothes were tailored and made to fit the person. Today the trend is to make every person fit the same clothes. My favorite quote in this sense has always been: "One size fits all", which it ironically never does.
  • when she said "non heteronormative historical fiction" my brain short circuited, because that's something I'm very passionate about and I never really expected Bernadette to mention it
  • As a corsetmaker I think the real distinction shouldn't be between historical and modern corsets, it should be between functional corsets and fashion corsets. The difference between a 'real' modern corset and a fashion corset is a lot greater than that between it and a historical one.
  • Corset wearers always say corsets are fine, but nobody asks the corset if it is fine.
  • @Anett39
    For some reason every time period has its own iconic and fashionable silhouette but we nowadays want to have fashionable body type, not silhouette.
  • @fractalcat3696
    "Not everyone squishes the same way" is an adorable phrase
  • @Azeria
    Designing clothes for people, not designing people to fit clothes!
  • @kaymiller4932
    Bernadette: "Thank you for listening to yet another one of my corset rants." Everyone in the audience: "We will listen to anything you have to say on anything"
  • @crystallionaire
    i hope some day we can go back to having clothes tailored to fit the bodies. i understand it would be expensive but id rather spend money on well fitted clothes over feeling like my body proportions are wrong because i cant fit into anything off the rack.
  • @LucysCorsetry
    I'm late - as per the usual - but thank you for this thoughtful comparison / analysis. Having put my body into a butt-ton (very scientific unit of quantity) of corsets, both OTR and custom, I agree with everything said here - especially the spectrum of relative comfort (and the subjectivity of comfort based on body size and compressibility). Regarding the modern overbust's pressure on your side-front rib causing discomfort, I recognize that corset as one that was very likely draped on a mannequin whose "rib cage" is laterally more narrow, and thicker along the sagittal plane. While the total rib circumference might have matched your own, the distribution in the panels was probably not anatomically designed. Speaking for myself - if a corset fits my wasp-waist dressform like a glove, it's not going to be a fun time for me (even though our general measurements are similar). Also thank you for the shoutout in the dooblydoo 🙊
  • @gmwal3
    Kind of obsessed with the look of Steampunk Victorian Goth Trash Teenager Bernadette though...
  • I feel like as clothing became less restrictive, the cultural view of "how to look fashionable" went from "of course you'll use padding to achieve the fashionable silhouette" to "you need to change your own naked body to achieve the fashionable silhouette". I haven't done that much research into the history of diet culture, but it feels like this might be the case.
  • @hazeeqsyahme
    People often forget that when clothes are made to your body, it's almost like second skin.
  • @izuizabela6613
    As a THICC & busty perrson & a corset wearer from my early 20s to this day [34] I must admit we have great corsetry culture here in Poland... and we really put a pressure on educating people who want to join the wagon. I was given all the knowledge I might need, I was helped to find the right corset maker for my shapes, and by them - the right corset. Therefore I never had a corset that would cause me a pain, and I wear them more or less full day if I decide I feel like wearing a corset :-) As someone said in comments - it is not about modern vs historical - it is about well-made or not corset. I have several "off-the-rack" corsets from polish companies, that fit me well and cause no discomfort of whatsoever... but it is because 1. they are properly sewn and 2. I was given help to pick the right piece for me
  • I gave a virtual high five to Noelle when she said "I want snack room for tacos" in my corsets because YES! Because as a squishy person, I too, want snack room. That is one thing I love about the Victorian era is that they padded out the areas that needed help and gave grace in clothes for it to be let out for when a woman gained weight or the dress was passed around. They knew that the gown or clothing wasn't going to have a singular owner.
  • @GuderII
    Me as male 30' working on the construction site as an electrical engineer. hhhmm this polite lady make corset thing interesting
  • @TimeBucks
    you give all the pros and cons of corset wearing
  • @ADHDACNH
    “Not everyone squishes the same way” I like this