Exposing Victorian Influencers Who 'Facetuned' Their Photos. (Photo Manipulation was EVERYWHERE đŸ€Ż)

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Published 2021-07-17
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SOURCES
Fineman, Mia. "Faking It: Manipulated Photography Before Photoshop". Yale University Press, New Haven, 2012.
Johnson, Robert. "A Complete Treatise on the Art of Retouching Photographic Negatives and Clear Directions How to Finish & Colour Photographs". Marion & Co., London. 1898. Accessible online: tinyurl.com/49pdp983
Schriever, J. B. "Complete Self-Instructing Library of Practical Photography, Volume X: Negative Retouching, Etching and Modeling. Encyclopedic Index. Glossary." American School of Art and Photography, Pennsylvania, USA, 1909. Accessible online: tinyurl.com/s3v6w5jm

NOTES
1 French Illusionist Henri Robin, photographed by Eugene Thiebault, 1863.
2 Schriever p 239
3 Johnson p 1
4 Schriever p 198
5 Illustration of the Coronet Corset Co. "The Ladies Home Journal", October 1900. Wikimedia Commons tinyurl.com/dz7kn93m
6 "1902-1909, Plate 049" The Metropolitan Museum of Art tinyurl.com/e49uv449
7 "CORSET", Paris, 1905. Wikimedia Commons tinyurl.com/tttzv8yx
8 Detail from "The Crush", Charles Dana Gibson, 1901. tinyurl.com/44j8b5zx
9 "Picturesque America, Anywhere Along the Coast", Charles Dana Gibson, 1898 tinyurl.com/yen8yn6n
[10] From the personal collection of Orla Fitzpatrick, published initially on Jacolette: a gallery of Irish snapshot and vernacular photography, 18 February, 2020. Used with permission. tinyurl.com/dw5vjw45
11 Schriever p 50.
12 The quoted text is from Johnson (p. 8-9) but the images shown are from Schriever.
13 Schriever p 54
14 Schriever p 104
15 Schriever p 176
16 Schriever p 187 (top), 191 (bottom)
17 Schriever p 201
18 Schriever p 222
19 Karolina's full video on Edwardian waist alteration: tinyurl.com/cx3ne3zk
20 "Margrethe Kallevig fĂždt Irgens", 1889. Aust-Agder Museum tinyurl.com/3w7j6wrk. Alterations are conjecture
21 Uploaded by Pinterest user Shelley Peters. Alterations are conjecture
22 Uploaded by Pinterest user Jealous21. Alterations are conjecture
23 The first 2 images are unaccredited. The third shows Vaudeville star Aida Overton Walker
24 Advertisement from "The Woman's Home Companion", April 1901 tinyurl.com/34pjavav
25 Postcard of Camille Clifford, c. 1900 tinyurl.com/2hrbxwtb
26 A "Gibson Girl" portrait, Charles Dana Gibson c 1891 tinyurl.com/4pw8uder
27 "Mrs. Will Richardson". Photographed c 1907 by Joseph J Pennell in Junction City, Kansas. Pennell Photography Collection/Kansas Collection, Kenneth Spencer Research Library, University of Kansas tinyurl.com/arjtsa44
28 "The Bien Jolie Brassiere." Votes for Women, vol. V, no. 224, 1912, p 615. Nineteenth Century Collections Online tinyurl.com/hwjda57x
29 "Multiple Classified Advertisements." The Designer and the Woman's Magazine, vol. XIII, no. 5, 1901, p. 572. Nineteenth Century Collections Online tinyurl.com/n8rpm8e6
30 "Multiple Classified Advertisements." The Designer and the Woman's Magazine, vol. XIX, no. 5, 1904, p. 555. Nineteenth Century Collections Online tinyurl.com/ja4uxv44
31 Arthur Devis. "Mr and Mrs Atherton", c. 1743. Walker Art Gallery, accession no. WAG 1353. tinyurl.com/3v85azbz
32 Engraving of Joannes Heurnius. The Wellcome Collection, system no. b1167455. tinyurl.com/2yzzfnjr
33 This point is excellently discussed in James Welsh's video on the subject of Influencers Vs Facetune: tinyurl.com/yrp7ss52
34 “Godey’s”, Volume 125. November, 1892
35 "The Model" advertisement featured in East Texas State Normal College's 1920 Locust yearbook tinyurl.com/5bapd6n4
36 An advertisement for a women's rabbit skin coat and a green wool suit, available at Eaton's College Street. Toronto, Canada. 1935 tinyurl.com/yt4xfzjp
37 Advertisement for Sweetheart Soap, March 1950 tinyurl.com/3bekb7pz
38 Unknown, European. Portrait of a Lady Holding an Orange Blossom, mid-18th century. Art Gallery of Ontario, accession no. AGO162606-1200
39 Portrait of Anne Marie d'Orléans. C. 1680s tinyurl.com/4p7xaf98
40 Portrait of a Lady in a rose-colored dress, possibly part of a "Gallery of Beauties”. C. 1670s tinyurl.com/xfta7zu3
41 Trinity and the Four Evangelists. Armenian minuscript of Nahapet of GamaƂiēl gospel. C. 1391 tinyurl.com/yxh9h4nx

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All Comments (21)
  • @ellenmarch3095
    My grandmother's picture from when she was twenty was flawless. She looked gorgeous. I told her that once, and she said, "it's all fake, dear. I had terrible acne. They touched up the photo." đŸ˜‚đŸ€Šâ€â™€ïžđŸ˜â€
  • @lyladepaula3291
    There's a lot to take away from this video but the thing that is standing out to me is the realization that the term "Gibson girl" belongs in the same group as the terms "e-girl" "insta baddie" and etc
  • @mmelanoma
    Occam's razor: well, they probably retouched their pictures Modern society: well they obviously went through surgery to remove a couple of ribs! Because that was so much easier at that time
  • @Lario64
    It makes me so sad to see that freckles were seen as such an ugly thing, even until quite recently. Ever since I was little I have always found freckles to be gorgeous and I was incredibly jealous of people who had them. I hope that everyone who reads this who has freckles is proud of them and finds them beautiful!
  • @kvan335
    In portraiture, they used this brilliant filter called 'I'm paying you to make me look good'
  • @rodittis
    I can see how the Victorians wouldn’t consider it “cheating” to retouch photos because think about what preceded photography : painted portraits. Even today everybody assumes a painted portrait is the “kindest” interpretation of the subject. Victorians probably understood implicitly that the photograph was an idealized version of themselves.
  • Thank you Bernadette for this. For all of us "stout" ladies out there that look at those Edwardian outfits and say, "I'm never going to look like that" it's good to know that they didn't either!
  • "There is no new thing under the sun" - In my art and theatre classes we spent a whole lot of time discussing how the Greek's represented the best in people, while their successors the Romans were much more comfortable with imperfection and "ugliness." It's not that every Greek person 3000 years ago was wandering around as a LITERAL Adonis, but that the Greek artists wanted to show the beauty that the human form ~could~ achieve. Greek playwrights were very concerned about how people ~should~ behave, and the consequences if they didn't. The Romans, meanwhile, slapped crooked noses and too-close eyes onto their statues bc that's how people actually look. Their literature has way more people getting away with bad behaviour - it's played for laughs. People are people, and we like to pretend to have perfect skin. shrugs
  • @MorganDonner
    Oh man, nothing quite like seeing how impossible the originals were to make one suddenly understand why one's own historical outfits never look quite right.
  • @KatieRoseHere
    I've always assumed the lack of facial "flaws" was due to the camera's lack of ability to pick it up. I did know about the body Photoshop though. The more you know.
  • @gregmark1688
    You missed an interesting rabbit hole: the part about "opening closed eyes' is probably there to help folks with the surprisingly popular Victorian practice of photographing their recently deceased loved ones. There were special 'stands' sold to photog studios for the sole purpose of propping up a corpse for a photo. It was popular to 'open' their eyes by retouching the photo, but it wasn't entirely uncommon to actually paint fake eyes on the eyelids of the deceased. You probably have no idea just how many Victorian photos of family groups you've seen in which one of them (often the youngest) has actually just died the day before.
  • @dingbattery
    I might speculate that the expectation of photos representing reality might have come from the advent of mass personal photography. I grew up looking at family photos that my parents shot with their SLRs onto film. Those photos were never altered, and I would say that this is definitely where I learned to expect photos to show reality.
  • @whereisannah
    Really puts into perspective that moment in Pride and Prejudice when Elizabeth’s aunt asks her if the miniature of Mr Darcy is ‘a fair likeness’. From this I assume that people were aware of some artistic liberties
  • @little1gili
    My godfather was a professional photographer in the USSR, and he'd manually retouch all the negatives of portraits he took to remove blemishes etc. He was really good at it. Nowadays, he does it all in Photoshop, obviously, but he still knows how to do it and will do it for fun now and then. Retouching on negatives is a super fascinating skill.
  • @CeceBiche
    Speaking of painting, the french painter Courbet was completely rejected at the Salon after proposing his « Les baigneuses » (meaning The bathing ladies) in 1853, which pictured a realistic naked lady with all of what would be considered flaws. Hips, belly and so on. She was called by the high society a « cow » or a « labour horse » because of course she did not correspond to the canon of that era. And Courbet was completely rejected by the « mainstream people » and is now considered one the the founders of the realist mouvement in french painting. Also, I think one painter is to be mentioned when alteration of the body is the subject : Ingres ! When you really look close at his portraits of naked people, you realise that bones are not at the right places I Love what you do ! Thanks đŸ„°
  • I genuinely appreciate that when she was talking about how obvious it is that you've retouched your shape if you're standing in front of a fence or something detailed, she demonstrated on a photo of herself instead of taking the easy approach and inserting an image mocking someone else.
  • Remember painted photos? My paternal grandfather told the photographer the wrong color for my grandmother's eyes. She was pissed off about that until the day she died.
  • @oanaheller2166
    As someone who is an artist who does oil paintings especially portraits of people, it always felt weird to me this hatred people feel towards "editing" and hiding one's blemishes. I am not talking about extreme cases of making ones waist look 12 cm smaller, but some of the alternative influencers I used to follow started being against any kind of editing and retouching. Which is mind blowing to me. When I make a portrait painting using someone's face as a reference, a friend or a sibling, you can bet I am not painting zits or dark shadows under their eyes. You are making that image be the representation of someone. Does the zit they had on their nose in that day represent them? No. A beauty mark they have been having on their face since forever, that is to stay and that represents them. But not temporary blemishes.