I Made A BIG Rotating Magnet Induction Heater! (with magnets from First4Magnets.com)

2024-06-23に共有
Induction heating works so well I'm amazed there aren't lots more examples of them around. You can boil water quickly, using pure undiluted physics!

This is where I bought my magnets from..
www.first4magnets.com/
and if you use this code WAYOUTWEST10 then you can get 10% off the bill.

Here's our main YouTube channel.. youtube.com/user/WayOutWestx2/videos
And here's my online shop www.ironpig.ie

And here's our Patreon page if you could spare a little to help.. www.patreon.com/user?u=2761318
And here's the Fairtube Union's page - fairtube.info/


If you need to contact me ... rustyironpig @ gmail.com

コメント (21)
  • I originally came for the railway, and sort of miss those videos (but I understand your point about it needing to earn its keep), but stay because every video is a wild, soft-spoken and cobbled together ride, and I often learn something new along the way!👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
  • @dave4728
    "The more things jiggle the hotter they get". I can relate to that 🤣🤣
  • You have to watch the temperature of the magnets, especially for Neodym! N 80 °C M 100 °C H 120 °C SH 150 °C UH 180°C EH 200 °C Overheating them, means they loose their magnetism....
  • As a fellow tinkerer and the powers invested in me by the School Of Hard Knocks, I hereby dub thee: a true Gizmologist and a Master Gizematician and you shall now be known as Sir Tim of the Gizmo. Go forth and wear your laurels well!
  • @atmazee
    Forget heating your house, you could make the world's biggest wind-powered induction cooking pot! Imagine the size of the soups.
  • As it's setup right now, the magnets produce a magnetic field on both sides of the disk. That means you could put metal on both sides of the disk. Or you could use something called a Halbach array, which is a special way to arrange the magnets so that most of the magnetic field is on only one side of the disk.
  • A easier and safer suggestion: It doesn't matter whether the magnets or copper is rotating. So rotate a copper disk and have the magnets on a non-moving board to remove the risk of the magnets flying off. Even better, for the rotating disk, use aluminum rather than copper - it wont make a difference which is used as long as they are thick enough. The thickness should be the "skin depth" at 666Hz (40,000 flips/min divide 60) which for Copper is 2.5mm and Al is 3.1mm, so a disk of either at those thicknesses will be as good as you can hope to get in terms of heat generation from eddy currents. Even better, if your stationary magnets are mounted in a thin holder, use two disks, one on each side of the magnets for twice the heat. And, since the heat is generated in the rapidly rotating aluminum disk(s), the rotation will create air movement to help transfer heat to the air. Regards from Canada!
  • @msx80
    Since the windmill will be pretty powerful, you can stack more than one disk along the shaft. Then you can coil your copper tube to pass between two disks with every loop. Btw i was impressed by the performances, that thing surely heats! Much better then the friction system. Also, watch the temperature of the magnets!
  • @sebbes333
    @Way Out West - Workshop Stuff 8:08 USE A WEDGE to handle these types of magnets. Make a wooden wedge, at a shallow angle, then wedge the magnets apart but ALSO together so they don't slam into each other & break (as you have done twice already). It is also MUCH safer for your fingers & other limbs, also be careful of magnet-fragments flying at high speeds towards your eyes. You can also build a kind of wooden "scissor", to "sheer off" one magnet from the rest.
  • my hats off to anyone making things in ireland. everytime i see metal it looks like the weather just eats it away! thank you for the videos tim :D
  • Not only can you pinch your fingers in the blink of an eye, you can also shatter the magnets by letting them come together in an uncontrolled manner.
  • Sub'd. No way I'm going to miss this project. When I was a teen (back in the 1800s I think) in Kansas, I built a windmill rock polisher. It was direct drive -- simply a trailer tire about 1/3 the diameter of a pretty rough, dual-bladed approx 1 meter windmill, hooked directly to the shaft. The grit and the rocks were dumped into the bottom side of the tire. They tumbled there just fine until the rpms got to where the rocks ceased tumbling and just became fixed to the inside of the tire. This caused me to install flexible blades on the windmill that regulated rpms down to where the rocks remained tumbling in all but the worst wind Kansas could throw at it. Then I became interested in girls and junked the whole apparatus.
  • Glad to see you investigating magnets. Having worked with Neodymium magnets before, I can warn you pay close attention to the temperature warnings: the magnets lose strength quite rapidly and permanently starting at around 80c So you'll want to keep the heat you're generating away from the magnets you're using the generate it. A vexing problem. Good Luck!
  • Great experiment Tim. Would love to see this done again with a long tube of copper that goes most way round the disc. Once the water heats up, it should set up its own recirculatorry action into a bucket with the cool water feeding in the bottom, and the hot water spitting out the tube into the top of the bucket.
  • For increased power lengthen the area of the copper over the magnets. A very imporpant faktor is to get as close as possible to the magnets since the magnatic field drops off rapidly with distance . Another factor is to use copper with thicker walls since more current can flow. Also the magnetic field does not pull or pusch on the electrons direcktly, it pusches them in a 90 degree angle to the movement of the magnets. Once the elektrons move themselves the push direcktion changes which results in a circular motion of the elektrons. With this relativ low speed these circles are quite large , therefore the power schould also be significantly increased by using wider copper. If there is copper overlaying on both sides of the magnet the circular currents can flow better. To check which effects the dimension changes have you con also use copper/brass/aluminium plates. If the plates produse more heat there will also be a greater pull felt on them. So you can get faster feedback by checking how much your heater gets pulled into the movement direction of the magnets. Possibly the best solution would be an aluminum circle over the magnets. With this size of magnets id use about a 5mm thick plate, whith the ring thicknes twise te magnet diameter, so overlapping half a magnet inner and outer circumference. To extract the heat from the al you might be able to get a round grove turned on the outside, where a copper tube can be laid in. (use rather 7-10mm thick plate) Of course it could also be soldered to a brass plate but that will probably be way more expensive than the aluminium
  • Smaller rectangle shaped magnets in the same space will give more pules per revolution, and if you place a coil of wire next to these magnets, ac current will be generated, which can be retified into dc for charging batteries etc. so this can be dual purpose, heating water and generating electricity.
  • Well, great. I was going to get a bunch of work done today but I guess instead I'll be gluing magnets in circles and attaching them to various spinning tools in my shop. THANKS TIM.
  • This is the kind of physics lesson that should be taught in school. Learn by doing and applying theories and laws instead of taking them for granted. Now on to an induction boiler and steam turbine or a thermopile to generate electricity. Along the way they would learn about efficiency Ein vs. Eout, Pin vs. Pout.