2G2M - Mini Cooper S R56 Timing Chain Replacement

One of the best timing chain replacement videos on a mini. Great resource to help me with my own mini. Great debriefing at the end. Convinced me to purchase crank holding tool. Thanks for your work.

I want to thank you for this video. It's videos like this that gave me the courage to tackle my own timing chain repair. I have a few suggestions for those out there that want to tackle this job: 1) Always replace the front crank seal. It's cheap insurance against an oil leak - and lubricate the inside of the seal to prevent it from getting damaged up on start up. 2) Soak the chain in oil before assembly. Why start it up dry? 3) Dropping the oil pan is a must, especially if your old chain kit had any kind of problems. Make sure your oil pump screen is clear 4) If you buy a gen 2 Mini, count on needing a new chain kit with tensioner. You may as well figure that into the price of the car.

Good video, I especially liked the end when you started the engine and I could hear what it should sound like to compare it to my own.

Hey man, I havent finished the video yet but I will be doing this project on my son's 2009 mini s today. This still looks easier than when I replaced the supply and return oil on the turbo. That was a tough 8hr job! I replaced with flex lines. I noticed yours is still stock. Beware! When you start seeing oil around the supply fitting on top of the turbo; then see if you can push and pull the line to and fro. If so then that seal in the fitting has chrystallized and is no longer sealing. Flex lines are easier to install but job is a challenge primarily due to heat shield removal and replacement! Ok I'm headed out to get this task done. We noticed a rattle/chatter coming from under the cover. Took the valve cover off and found plastic pieces missing from the rub rails, fished them out replaced the cover started but still had same noise. So off we go!

Great Video! loved the part descriptions and tips throughout as well as learning curve tips after the fact. Excellent for research. I will be attempting this repair myself here in the next few weeks.

Thank you so much for your video, it encouraged me to do the work. I had few problems cause I used carburetor cleaner on the turbo lines and it ate the seals. I had to take the turbo out again and replaced the lines. Don’t put original parts in does lines, they make better ones. God bless you young man for sharing your experience, it help me and save me a lot of money.

Thanks for this awesome step by step video.. after watching I feel more comfortable to work on my Mini by myself.

You did really good on documenting this job! Great for everyone who wants to prepare for it.

I had bugs in my STOMACH the whole time , great video i must say for a DIY guy . My sons mini is going to need timing chain soon he's getting to that 100 thousand mile mark . So I'm putting on my I know everything face and diving right in . Thanks for your knowledge .

All I can say is thank you ! I had the same problem with my cooper . Took notes and I’m ready to attack !

Thanks for the vid! I am doing a head gasket, ARP racing studs and the timing chain this weekend. Some steps are much easier with a 700 ft/lb air hammer. I have never tried to take a crank shaft bolt off without one.

Man thank you so much for making this video .It was so useful .Just replaced my timing chain on my 2009 Mini Cooper S .

thanks for the information and common sense approach

Thanks for the vid. I am in the process of replacing the set up myself. I found a trick to putting in the crank pin. It actually goes in all the way! I used a mirror to look at the hole. The hole in the crank has to match the flywheel hole exactly. With the mirror I was able to see it. I had to use a screw driver on the gear where you can see it through the bottom to make very tiny adjustments and wellah the pin slid all the way in very smoothly. I even had the cheap kit. I can post pics but not sure if comments allow.

34:05 Same problem here! Had no idea the flywheel could even be installed wrong, but apparently the previous owner replaced the clutch, so the kabob sticks looks like the only solution here. Thanks a million for the solution, I thought I was SOL and was looking at a dropped transmission.

Exactly what I need. Thanks for this post!

Good man the step by step tutorial is real nice man and enlightening

If the crankcase pin doesn't want to go in. turn the engine over once more. (Markings on cams will be back into the correct position.)

Thank you and MINI Adventurer (?) for the kabob stick idea...I love the simple visual. For the crank lock, sorry you had to sand it. I would have stuck it in my dril chuck l and ran it on low RPM. A measure of yours with a pair of calipers would be nice info to add as a popup text so others can see if theirs is likely oversized. Just an idea. I know this video was from a while ago. Edit: while you're at it buy some good quality step drill bits. Wish I had bought some 20 years ago. They are awesome for quick fab work.

Torque specs have been Revised! The top guide rail needs to be fitted before the pre-tension is set, and if you're looking through comments for torque the cams on N14 20nm + 180° for inlet 20nm + 90° exhaust 25nm chain guide bolts, Wouldn't use new ones i never have and I've done literally hundreds. Bit of silicone grease on the O-rings, Crank is 50nm + 180° Tensioner 65nm Make sure you fit the guide rail before you pre tension or tighten anything, it will be wrong if you fit it after timing is set.