How To Remove A Broken Bolt 6 DIFFERENT WAYS - LS Exhaust Manifold

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This is the best rusty bolt removal tutorial on the internet.

What actually works better than the turbo method is welding a 15” steel wheel from a 1985 Monte Carlo (it has to be a 1985 Monte Carlo and 15” wheel). Then , weld or anchor the wheel to one of the yellow, metal safety poles in any Walmart parking lot. Then, you’ll need some help from a buddy, but turn the engine, not the bolt, until the engine falls to the ground. Works virtually 100% of the time 25% of the time. This is not an advertisement for yellow, metal safety poles in Walmart parking lots.

If you are out in the field somewhere and don't happen to have a welder or a spare turbocharger lying around, something else that works fairly well is to always carry a small bag of torx bits with you (they are cheap and small). You can drill a hole slightly smaller than the torx bit into the broken bolt and then use a hammer to drive the torx bit into the bolt and then try to turn the bolt out using a vice grip or some other gripping tool. It works better than an extractor, and in situations where you don't have all of the "fancy" equipment you used. Depending on the size of the bolt, you can try this trick several times on the same bolt. Of course, having a torch, welder, or turbocharger always helps.

I really like the addition of the washer to the nut when welding. Heat is the key.

In most, if not all cases, you start by shocking the broken bolt. Even if it is broken inside; you take smaller, flat at the end punch, and smack it multiple times with hammer. This helps to loosen the bolt, and it will be easier to remove, no matter what method you are going to use. In addition, left-hand drill bits should be added to the list of possible solutions. Also, there are ways to make the point in the middle of the broken bolts (nobody should be just making it with a small punch). I either use the biggest drill bit that will fit the hole (make the good starting point and then continue with smaller diameter bit), or the largest transfer punch diameter that will fit the hole.

Use the vice grip with moving jaw towards the direction of rotation. This helps the torque to assist with closing the jaws.

I'm half way trough a hemi manifold... grasping for straws now. I knew steps 1-5, but #6 made my day. Stress gone. Thanks!!

Excellent. The bane of my efforts to service my own vehicles. Getting rusted bolts off. It was your attitude towards it that made me realize it's doesn't have to be painful. But can be looked at as fun and challenging. Thanks.

Hey guys, huge tip if you’re doing method number five, where you’re drilling a hole and screwing something out make sure you don’t spray lubricant in it and if you do then spray it out with degreaser or isopropyl alcohol after so you get Maxximum grip and there is no slipping Make sure you do this before you hammer in that removal screw! Thank me later

Bought a flux core MIG welder on Amazon for $74 after tax and shipping. It even came with a welding mask and a roll or wire. Extracted a broken stud by welding a nut on it. Worked great.

The sound effects my dying! Well done zzzzzzzzzz squeek

This would be a better experiment if you use actual broken bolts. And I always use reverse drill bits for bolt extraction. A lot of time the heat from the drilling will help free it up, and it just comes out while I'm drilling.

My God... the washer method worked! I was trying for hours before this with a seized bolt, broke 3 nuts off prior to seeing this method. I cannot even tell you how much you've helped. Thanks!!!!!

Thanks for the methods. I just removed the ditch side manifold from a 2003 Grand Marquis. While in the car. I cut the nuts off so I could remove the manifold. Now all the studs were exposed. I tried the vise grip method, it worked on one. I tried the double jammed nuts and couldn’t get any action, so I pulled out my stick welder. I welded oversized nuts on the exposed studs, and got 6 more out. The last 3 broke the weld out of the welded nuts, so I used the washer and nut method to get the last 3 out. Note, I am replacing the fender so I had the luxury of space. Thank you for the great video.

Great video! Just a suggestion for anyone using an easy-out or tap. Try to use some form of a tap handle to help keep the pressure centered, it is too easy to snap a tap, etc using a regular wrench. Second point, I am a retired machinist, I hated using easy outs, like you said, if they work 50% of the time for you, that is a far greater success rate than they worked for me. Plus, one of the most common repairs I saw were customers bringing in a part that had a broken bolt with an easy out broken in it.. made drilling it out near impossible.

Awesome stuff man! And thank you! Never heard of the washer method. I just put a fire to it till the gaskets start smoking

And here I was thinking I'm the only one that ever welded a turbo charger to broken off bolt to remove it. So refreshing to know that I am not alone!🙂. Great video.

Not sure what's more entertaining. You welding a turbo to an exhaust manifold or the instant I saw the turbo I went to your videos looking for DSMs. You didn't disappoint. Hahah. Thanks for the laugh today.

When I was a mechanic, I was assembling an engine top end in a boat that was open for 3 years, in Los Angeles, harbour. It was all corroded, so I was down in the bilge using a tap in all the head bolt holes, I was about done, when I heard a boats engine coming into the marina to fast, so I stopped and held on, but the wave was to big and violently through the boat around and through me over the engine, as I flew over the engine my leg hit and broke off the tap below the surface !! It took me 12 hours plus a. (Milton tap extractor). To get the piece out without hurting the threads !! Lots of using a flat punch and WD-40 . 😂 Great Video